City In the Sky

In the Himalayan town of Leh, extreme elevation keeps visitors’ heads in the clouds

Leh Palace was modeled after the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. // © 2012 Deborah Dimond

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The sightseeing starts on the plane ride. Passengers gasp in awe as they peer out of their windows to look down at the tops of the Himalayas below. In the distance, they can see the curvature of the earth and a sky that is the bluest I have ever seen. Landing at the airport, you might not feel as if you have reached the ground. The city of Leh-Ladakh, India, sits at an altitude of 11,562 feet above sea level, which is more than double the height of the “Mile High City” of Denver — it is not for the faint of heart or those with high blood pressure. A visit to the city is best left to healthy travelers whose bodies can weather the effects of the extremely high altitude.

Plans for the first few days in this destination should be easy and relaxed to avoid getting altitude sickness.

Leh is an outdoor-lover’s paradise with options for hiking, river rafting and even a yak safari. For the first couple of days, travelers can take short car rides to see the historic sites around the city. Leh is also rich in Buddhist treasures, including the 15th-century Thiksay Monastery. Resembling a fortress, the working monastery is a maze of brightly painted murals and a treasure trove of religious art and monuments such as stupas (mound-like structures usually containing Buddhist relics or the ashes of the deceased), statues, thangkas (embroidered silk paintings) and an impressive two-story golden Buddha. When visitors arrive at the morning meditation room they will know that they have made it to the heart of the complex. The tall, dark wooden chamber is filled with large imposing idols and offerings to the gods. Other notable sites include the surreal stupa fields near the Shey Place, where 700 stupas dot the hillside, many of which date back to the 11th century, and the once grand nine-story Leh Palace that has fallen into ruins in the center of the town.

For those who want to climb the Himalayas but lack the stamina of Sir Edmund Hillary, a drive up the Khardung Pass, the highest drivable highway in the world, will do. Travelers can hire guides to drive up the winding and extremely bumpy mountain road. Along the way, passengers can spot marmots burrowing in the undergrowth and majestic expanses of snow and rock. At the top, visitors will find a modest tea stand, a gift shop and a sign marking the remarkable 18,380-foot elevation.