India in Style

The Taj Mahal. Ever since childhood, even the mention of it has evoked the most exotic of visions. But would it live up to my expectations? I would have to wait until the end of my Cox & Kings 10-night journey to Northern India and the Kerala region of the country to find out.

In spite of the relatively weak U.S. dollar, India still offers luxury travel opportunities at reasonable prices. And for Westerners traveling to a country where your senses, emotions and health concerns can be stretched far beyond the bounds of most travel destinations, the investment may well be worth it. For North American travelers, India is not only geographically but mentally on the other side of the earth.

While Air India offers the shortest flying time from the West Coast 18 hours and 40 minutes and three classes of service aboard their 747-400 from Los Angeles to Mumbai via Frankfurt, I opted for a Singapore Airlines flight utilizing the state-of-the-art Airbus 340-500. Yet, it was with some trepidation that I took my seat on the Singapore Airlines nonstop from Los Angeles to Singapore. Not that I have a fear of flying, but my underlying claustrophobia was kicking in at the thought of a 17-hour-plus flight. Business class on the modified Airbus 340, however, soon put my fears and then my body to rest. A great dinner, a view-on-demand movie on my private screen and the reclining-into-a-flat-bed seat put me out two hours after takeoff until somewhere over the South China Sea.

The economy section has also been specially configured for ultra-long haul flights with wider seats, more room between seats, a 2-3-2 seat configuration and a standing/stretching area always stocked with fruit, snacks and drinks.

Next stop, India.

Hooray for Bollywood

Passing women in saris, cows weaving in and out of traffic, the exotic scents of curry emanating from the roadside stands the ride into Mumbai from the international airport leaves visitors with no doubt as to where they are.

A Cox & Kings representative met our group and after checking into the Oberoi with its amazing views of the Arabian Sea we headed out for a tour. Cox & Kings was established in 1758 and their personnel are experts on all facets of travel on this side of the globe.

An afternoon tour of Mumbai included a visit to the Gateway of India, a massive arch that commemorates the visit of Britain’s George V and Queen Mary in 1911. Years later, the last of the British troops exited India through the arch to board ships back to England.

Back at the hotel we dined at Tiffin, a new restaurant on the Oberoi property with a very cool and trendy atmosphere. More than a few “Bollywood” stars have been spotted in this hip restaurant, which is no surprise as Mumbai is home to the largest filmmaking industry in the world.

Going from bustling Mumbai to Udaipur in Rajasthan was a nice segue to a very different part of India.

Two gentlemen with camels greet arriving guests at the entrance to The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur. The 30-acre palatial resort is on the banks of Lake Pichola and has views of the 17th-century palaces of Jagmandir and Jagniwas. After an afternoon walking tour of the palaces we returned for an Indian feast served on the patio of the hotel.

A two-hour drive to Ranakpur to visit the 15th-century Chaumukh Jain temple the next morning was well worth the time. One of the most beautiful temples in India, it was worth it not only for the destination but the journey as well. We saw sari-clad women balancing containers of water on their heads, camels being led by the side of the road and men at work on a water wheel drawing water from the ground. These same scenes could have been witnessed centuries ago.

The drive itself though is not for the faint of heart. Local drivers seem to make a game of passing cars on blind curves. I believe in fate, but not nearly as much as these drivers apparently do.

Back at The Oberoi I treated myself to a little pampering at The Oberoi Spa by Banyan Tree. Holistic therapies and massages that combine Eastern and Western practices are used by therapists there that are hand-picked for Oberoi Hotels and Resorts from the Banyan Tree Spa Academy in Phuket, Thailand.

That night we ventured over to the magnificent Taj Lake Palace for dinner and a tour of the hotel’s luxury suites. Each room is truly worthy of a maharajah. This location has a long rich history and has been the subject of countless paintings and photographs.

An early morning flight brought us to Cochin, once the center of the thriving spice trade and now the principal port on the Malabar Coast. The scenery here is tropical versus the arid north we left four hours earlier. Cochin’s rich trading past is reflected in the Portuguese, Dutch and British influences evident in its architecture. Because of this history, Cochin is fantastic for its shopping.

After witnessing a magnificent sunset over the Arabian Sea, I returned to the Trident Hilton Cochin and went to the on-site Ayurveda Centre for a synchronized rejuvenation massage. Two masseuses work on you from head to toe and at several points, pull in opposite directions. While it’s reminiscent of the medieval rack torture, the results are much more pleasurable.

The next day, we boarded the Oberoi Hotel Group’s beautifully appointed eight-cabin M.V. Vrinda for a two-day cruise exploring the picturesque backwaters of Kerala. I was looking forward to slowing down from the fast pace we kept and I was not disappointed. There’s something about a cruise that seems to balance the senses and this gentle ride helped digest the incredible experiences of the past few days. In the evening, performances of classical dances distinctive to Kerala by a local dance troupe added to the flavor of this magical place. After dinner, I retired to my cabin for a what turned out to be a much needed night’s sleep.

The next morning brought a spectacular sunrise. We transferred to a traditional rice boat to ply the narrower canals of the area. Shore excursions from the rice boat to several small towns along the way including Chambakulam, with its 18th-century St. Mary’s Church and half-statue of Lord Buddha at Karumadi gave us a glimpse of daily life.

After a lunch of Indian delicacies topped off by a special request I made for a warm brownie with strawberry ice cream, Rashida Anees of Cox & Kings smiled and leaned close.

“Everything is possible in India,” he said. “Except changing night to day.”

From what I had experienced so far, I believed it. After two relaxing days plying the calm waters, it was on to New Delhi and then Agra.

I Become a ‘Have’

No trip to India would be complete without a visit to the Taj Mahal in the town of Agra.

After spending a night in New Delhi, we took a two-hour express train to Agra. Just getting through the train station was a trek in itself. People seemed to have taken up residence on the floors, benches, platforms, wherever they could. The train cars, even the air-conditioned one we were booked in, had seen better days. Of course, there are luxury train options available for clients as well (see sidebar), but I actually enjoyed this taste of real India.

A guide from The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra was waiting for us on the platform as our train pulled into the station. The hotel is located less than a half-mile from the Taj Mahal and offers unobstructed views of this wonder of the world from most rooms.

In fact, walking into the lobby of the hotel gave me my first look at the Taj Mahal. It was simply overwhelming. I could not stop staring at it until an inner voice convinced me that it would still be there after I checked in. I dare even the most hardened of travelers not to be awestruck by the site. I understand now why President Clinton, after his visit to the Taj, divided the world into two: those who have seen the Taj Mahal and those who haven’t. I was now a full-fledged member of the “haves.”

A golf cart shuttles hotel guests to the entrance of the Taj which was built by the Moghul Emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his most beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. I spent a morning and a late afternoon at the Taj to observe the white marble under different lighting conditions. I removed my shoes, entered the dome and circumnavigated the enclosed area which houses for eternity the bodies of Mumtaz Mahal and the Shah Jahan who was laid to rest beside her upon his death.

A visit to the Taj Mahal was a great way to end an incredible journey to an incredible country.

Every adjective invented both good and bad could be used to describe India. It is certainly a land of extremes, and a must-see destination for serious travelers. Traveling through the country is like living a National Geographic documentary. And for those who want the National Geo experience during the day and the life of a maharajah at night, India offers the opportunity at prices that even non-royalty can afford.