Although the unusually large number of guys with mutton chops
should have been a clue, I didn’t immediately realize it was an
Elvis cruise, when first sailing from Galveston on Carnival’s
The Ecstasy was on its regular four-day run to Cozumel, a route
it took over last October from the smaller Celebration. The move
increased Carnival’s capacity by 38 percent on the popular four-
and five-day trips across the Gulf of Mexico, which it operates
On this trip about 25 percent of the boat was filled with Elvis
fans, on an annual pilgrimage to Mexico to salute the anniversary
of the King’s death. The trip is organized by a Houston radio
station. Once at sea, Elvis impersonators entertained people by the
pool and customized bingo games featured Elvis song titles.
Groups, like the Elvis impersonators, typically fill almost half
the ship, according to hotel director Tania Melkonian. In addition
to the Elvis fans, there was also a group on board from the
University of Texas dental school.
For most Cozumel trips, almost 90 percent of the passengers are
from Texas, with the rest coming from neighboring states Oklahoma
and Arkansas, Melkonian said. The four-day cruise leaves from
Galveston at 4 p.m. on Thursday and returns Monday morning, making
it an efficient getaway for Texans who can drive to Galveston,
about an hour’s drive south of Houston.
“You don’t have to use as much vacation time to take a cruise,”
said Ann Dale of Dallas, a woman in her 50s who was traveling with
The scene on board was very similar to a weekend at any
mid-level Vegas resort. At night, I was one of the few men wearing
a sport coat at dinner; there were only a smattering of tuxedos on
As a nod to the regional clientele, several of the entertainers
were from Texas, including “adult” comedian Tony Stone. In March,
the main stage show will switch to a musical called “Extreme
Country,” according to cruise director Larry Garlutzo.
Even though it’s a short cruise, the Carnival staff does its
best to keep people busy. Almost 200 people showed up for an
afternoon art auction. A wine-tasting seminar, a program developed
on the Ecstasy for its longer cruises, also drew a crowd. During
the day at sea, a four-piece reggae band played by the pool.
Throngs of passengers clearly uninterested in Carnival’s low-carb
dinner menu feasted on hamburgers, as well as pizza, which was
available around-the-clock. The Panorama Bar & Grill, the
ship’s buffet, offered an extensive breakfast and lunch menu,
spicing things up in the evening with some French and Indian
entrees. The Ecstasy has two main dining rooms, the Wind Star and
the Wind Song, both featuring an array of New York cut steaks,
seafood and other specialties.
On the first day at sea I was able to avoid the party-boat
throngs and spend a quiet afternoon, capped by a steam bath in the
Ecstacy’s pleasant spa. The ship was sailing at capacity, but it
didn’t feel packed. As the day faded there were still plenty of
secluded places to watch the sunset. At night the discos were
hopping, but there were only a few friendly passengers gathered
around the piano in the aptly named Neon Bar, which made for a
pleasant and less stressed evening.
According to the staff there were more than 100 kids on board,
but there was little evidence of them. Carnival breaks the under-18
crowd into four age groups and keeps them fairly busy with Camp
Carnival activities. At night, one nightclub was designated
exclusively for the 15- to 17-year-old set, and there was a
dedicated teen host to keep them busy.
When we arrived on Cozumel, we docked at the pier Carnival
helped build, which is about a $6 taxi ride from downtown.
Carnival’s Sensation, which was doing a similar four-day trip out
of New Orleans, was already docked, doubling the crowds on the pier
in the morning.
There were a wide variety of shore excursions available, ranging
from cooking classes and party boats to diving and deep-sea fishing
“Cozumel for a long time was always about shopping, but I don’t
think that’s true anymore,” said Garlutzo, the cruise director.
I chose the “Eco-Jeep and Snorkeling Adventure” as my shore
excursion. A group of energetic guides dressed in matching safari
hats and khaki shorts met us at their pier and proceeded to shout
instructions to a group of about 50 people.
We drove south into Punta Sur, an ecological preserve. With no
alcohol allowed, the group was pleasantly well mannered. After
brief stops at a small Mayan temple and a deck overlooking the
lagoon, where the guides fed raw chicken breasts to the local
crocodiles, it was off to the beach, a long stretch of fine white
sand strewn with huge conch shells and blue coral.
The snorkeling part of the excursion was spectacular, albeit
more strenuous than some people expected. It required a swim of a
few hundred yards and then a walk across a long stretch of sand to
reach the reef. One woman struggled to the beach after swallowing
After about an hour and a half, it was back into the Jeeps for a
short drive to the local lighthouse and then a bit of bouncing
around on dirt roads before heading back to the dock.
We were back at sea by 5 p.m., ready for one more day of
lounging on the Ecstasy. But, as it turned out, the Gulf turned
rough on Sunday and many passengers spent the last day of the “fun
cruise” huddled in their bunks. It was January, after all, so I
decided to forgive the Gulf.
Elvis would have wanted it that way.
Company: Carnival Cruise Line
Ship: Carnival Ecstasy
Size: 70,367 tons
Year Built: 1991
Plugging In: Cabins feature 110-volt electrical
outlets, so there’s no need for a converter. There’s an Internet
cafe onboard, and Wi-Fi access is available.
Hits: Wide array of shore excursions on Cozumel
provide some variety to the itinerary, which has only one port of
call. The convenient, “long weekend” trip is a quick and easy
Misses: The nightly sushi bar was a great idea,
but the rolls were mushy and inedible. A remote parking lot and
confusing baggage drop-off make embarkation a bit tedious.
Itinerary: The Ecstacy’s four-day cruises from
Galveston to Cozumel depart every Thursday throughout 2005.
Cost: Prices for inside cabins start at $399,
and for ocean-view cabins, $449
Commission: Ranges from 10-16 percent.