It’s not often that I wake up voluntarily at 6 a.m. let alone
when I’m on a week’s vacation at a spa. But the Breakfast Hike, a
popular four-mile ramble to Rancho La Puerta’s organic vegetable
garden, left at 6:15 a.m. And the end of the hike promised an
elaborate breakfast of fruit, oatmeal, muffins and free-range
I was back three hours later, just in time for the 9:30 tennis
clinic, which finished just in time for a luxurious 1½-hour yoga
“Turn to the vineyards,” the instructor intoned as we rotated to
the right and peered across a well-tended field of grape vines
surrounded by wildflowers.
“Turn to the mountains,” she commanded as we turned to take in a
vista of 3,885-foot Mount Kuchumaa. “Now relax and breathe.”
No problem. Despite my busy morning I’d never been more relaxed.
My mother and I had arrived at Rancho La Puerta two days earlier
for a week of mother-daughter bonding. Set in the mountains an hour
south of San Diego, just across the border in Mexico, The Ranch as
it is known to its devotees was founded in 1940 by Deborah and
Edmond Szekely, owners of the famed Golden Door spa. Originally the
Ranch was no more than a rustic camp with no electricity or running
water. Guests brought their own tents and paid just $17.50 a week
to sleep under the stars and listen to Edmond lecture about how the
interdependence of mind, body and spirit leads to a healthy,
Over the years, The Ranch has grown to 3,000 manicured acres
with 84 Mexican-style casitas. Each week, 160 guests arrive to take
part in everything from tennis, yoga, weight-training or Tai Chi to
a cooking, wreath-making or jewelry class. Still, The Ranch remains
true to its roots: The emphasis is on active living and spiritual
healing rather than simple self-indulgence.
Not that there’s a lack of spa treatments. Rancho La Puerta has
two spa centers including one with a heavenly rooftop Jacuzzi,
which offer the latest treatments. My mother chose the classic
massage, and I opted for a hot river-stone treatment, where smooth,
heated stones are swept across the body. The treatments range from
$35 to $65, far less than you’d pay at a spa north of the border,
so guests should book early. The most popular hours are between 4
p.m. and 6 p.m., after most activities have wound down and before
Which brings us to the food. Generally, spas scare me when it
hits dinnertime. I hate to pay resort prices for rabbit food, even
if it’s for my own good. And I resent the idea of tiny, set
portions especially when I’m doing four-plus hours of exercise
daily. The Ranch solves that problem by offering high-fiber,
all-you-can-eat vegetarian cuisine (though fish is served twice a
Breakfast and lunch are buffets and might include fresh fruit,
oatmeal, low-fat muffins, assorted salads, black bean soup or pizza
with vegetables and feta cheese. At dinner, there’s table service
but, if you’ve worked out hard and are not satisfied with a healthy
tofu stir-fry or chili rellenos, you can always request an extra
portion of potatoes or steamed vegetables.
In fact, my only complaint about Rancho La Puerta is that it’s
easy to become so swept up in the array of activities that guests
forget why they came in the first place: To relax, rejuvenate and
reattain a little perspective about your hectic life back home.
I tended to design busy mornings a hike, tennis, an aerobics,
yoga class and left my afternoons open. Sometimes, I’d lounge in
the shade in one of the dozen or so hammocks found throughout the
property. More often, Mom and I took long walks through the
colorful gardens, planted with rosemary, lavender, sage and fields
of calendulas, narcissus and alyssum. Dotted throughout are bronze
statues and picturesque antique wooden carts.
In the evenings, Mom and I often skipped activities to spend
time in our room. It would have been a shame not to. Our villa,
complete with a living room and a working fireplace, had French
doors that opened on to a garden and sweeping vista of Mount
Kuchumaa. The walls were adorned with colorful local tapestries and
accented with Mexican pottery, tiles and hammered-tin mirrors.
On our last day, Mom and I attended the weekly seminar on how to
take The Ranch home. Instructors reiterated their philosophy on
nutrition (eat an all-natural diet low in fat, sodium and refined
flour and sugar) and The Ranch’s six facets of fitness
(cardiovascular, stretching, strength-building, coordination,
relaxation and, last but not least, massage). I immediately
promised myself I’d follow all the rules. But I knew once I got
home, there was nothing that would get me up at 6 a.m.
Rancho La Puerta is located one hour from San Diego, just south of
the border in Tecate, Baja California. The resort sits at an
altitude of over 1,500 feet in the mountains and meadows below
Mount Kuchumaa’s 3,885-foot peak. The cool mountain zone and dry
climate make the resort a perfect spot for year-round fitness
P.O. Box 463057
Escondido, CA 92046
Clientele: Mostly women 30-60, though
mother-daughter weeks are popular. Children must be
15 or older.
Rates: Weekly prices range from $2,260 for a
simple double to $3,435 for a deluxe villa in high season.
Commission: In addition to 10 percent
commission, Rancho La Puerta offers 50 percent for the agent and a
guest (sharing a room) and a free week for every 10 guests that
visit the ranch in a calendar year.
Getting There: Guests fly to San Diego and the
ranch runs shuttles every two hours for pick up. Some people, but
very few, drive and park their cars on the premises.