ANACAPA, Channel Islands, Calif. They are Southern California’s
outposts final outcroppings of arid rock. Even with the teeming
mainland in full view, they can seem quite isolated. In fact, only
about 30,000 people a year set foot on the five islands of the
Channel Islands National Park, an easy day trip from Los Angeles.
Easiest of all is Anacapa Island. At less than 700 acres,
two-thirds of which is off-limits to visitors, it is also, perhaps,
the easiest for the casual visitor to absorb.
This is not a place for the ambitious hiker. Those who wish to
stretch their legs should go to Santa Cruz or Santa Rosa islands,
the largest of the Channel Islands. Even tiny Santa Barbara Island
has more hiking trails than Anacapa.
Nor should it be recommended for clients whose mobility is
limited, however. Access is by boat. To leave the boat, visitors
need to be able to scramble up a vertical ladder, and then go up
steps that make a 10-story fire escape look easy. Island Packers,
which operates the boat service, counts 153 steps and recommends
that climbers take their time and enjoy the view.
It’s not a broad view at that point, but it carries strong hints
of what’s ahead a narrow cove with trails of kelp on the water
below; and flocks of raucous seabirds and rows of pelicans, posted
like Easter Island statues, atop the sheer cliffs.
On the plateau, visitors find the walking easy, whether they go
it alone or stay in the company of rangers or guides who come in on
the boat. The plateau is nearly flat, the paths narrow but smooth.
There are a few buildings clustered near the landing, including a
rudimentary visitors’ center, all quickly left behind.
The top of the island belongs to the gulls, and they are
everywhere, without regard for the paths. Some of them will scream
up at passers-by literally from underfoot. Others tread
precariously atop the thick carpet of vegetation with webbed feet
unsuited for grasping at footholds.
Not all the plants are native. Like most islands, this one is
deeply scarred by human visitors and the baggage they carry, so the
ground cover that dominates much of the landscape is the same
invasive ice plant that lines many of California’s freeways
colorful, but viewed with disdain by environmentalists. There is,
however, more unusual vegetation as well, such as the giant
coreopsis, or tree sunflower, a thick woody stalk that sprouts a
tuft of yellow blooms in early spring. It grows in clumps that are
the closest thing Anacapa offers to a forest.
That brings up another caution for clients: Use sunblock. The
sunflowers are, at most, a few feet high, so there’s nothing
resembling shade on the island. The view opens up at the end of the
trail. Anacapa is actually three islands separated by shallow
channels, and the outlook along the broken spine of rock with the
surf below and squadrons of pelicans flying low in formation is
spectacular.
Back along the northern side, there is more scenery, accompanied
by barking sea lions far below.
The whole walk, complete with a couple of loops and plenty of
stops to admire views, takes less than an hour. That leaves time to
do it again, or to return to one of the strategically placed
benches to think about the next activity.
That trip could be a more energetic exploration of snorkeling
opportunities the national park exists as much for its underwater
wonders as for the islands themselves. Or perhaps a leisurely boat
ride along the island’s north shore, past the sea lion rookeries
and with an eye out for ever-present dolphins. Whatever you decide,
clients can enjoy the sea air and the view while pondering the many
choices.
Island Packers offers 10 percent commission on groups of 10 or
more. 805-642-1393; www.islandpackers.com.
Visitors must bring water and food. Pit toilets available.
