Staying Power

The men and women who work at Tillicum a Chinook word that means “friendly people” are members of Northwest tribes, intent on preserving and sharing the traditions of their ancestors. As we walked up the path toward the longhouse, they greeted us with small bowls of steaming clams in a salty broth. After eating the sweet meat, they told us to put the shells on the ground and stomp on them, great fun in itself.

Three massive buffet tables awaited us inside the longhouse. As we stood in line, we studied historic photos of a Northwest smokehouse, looked at maps of the region and watched a craftsman demonstrate how to carve a mask out of cedar. Distracted by an enticing aroma, I turned to see great slabs of king salmon baking on cedar posts over alder-wood fires in traditional preparation.

We loaded up our platters with the moist pink fish, alongside red potatoes, wild rice, warm dark bread and a bounty of fixings from the salad bar. It’s an all-you-can-eat affair, and our clan made good use of that opportunity, washing it down with lemonade and water (beer and wine are available for an extra charge). The dessert a salmon-shaped wedge of chocolate wrapped up the meal.

Tillicum’s dining room can accommodate hundreds of visitors, who sit at long tables arranged so that everyone has a good view of the stage. The elaborate set resembled a Pacific Northwest forest, and as the lights dimmed, the staff, dressed in colorful costumes, took to the stage to perform dances of the Native Americans who settled between the Columbia River and Alaska. Revamped in 1992 by Greg Thompson Productions, the presentation, called “Dance on the Wind,” captured just the right mix of entertainment, education and respect, from the welcoming Paddle Dance to rhythmic moves showcasing spectacular ceremonial masks.

After the show, some folks perused the gift shop with its clothes, art, books, jewelry, music and crafts. Others, like us, headed outside to enjoy the natural beauty of Blake Island, which boasts 16 miles of trails, a gorgeous beach within easy walking distance and frequent sightings of deer.

According to Greer, in 2008 the attraction will add classes in Native American drum and mask carving, and beading demonstrations in the longhouse. In the coming summer months, steel drum music will enliven the evening cruises. But otherwise, the overall Tillicum Village package remains much the same as its original concept, which Greer called “a total experience, a treasure that can be counted on.”

On the ride home, the Seattle skyline loomed large and impressive as the Goodtime II pulled up to the pier. I stepped off the boat and back into the modern world, but I won’t soon forget the smell of the cedar longhouse, the taste of alder-planked salmon and the mesmerizing sights and sounds of authentic Native American dances.