John Pregil of Hawaiian Fire Surf
School, with his baby son, on Oahu
What makes Oahu such a great place for beginning and experienced surfers alike?
Oahu has every type of wave for every type of surfer, from the massive North Shore outer reef behemoths to the long, rolling breakers of Waikiki. And the water is warm! Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, which gives the sport a special aura here. Wherever you catch your first wave, it’s that much sweeter because it happened in the islands.
What’s your favorite surf spot in Hawaii?
The east side of Oahu during Kona wind (offshore direction) days, for its uncrowded, glassy perfection.
How did you get into surfing?
A childhood friend introduced me to surfing at the age of 11. His dad would drive us to Waikiki in the morning and we’d surf all day, eat snacks, then get picked up at the end of the afternoon. Back in the ’70s there weren’t any surf schools, so you pretty much taught yourself, and there was lots of trial and underwater error. But that first real ride was magic. It felt like I was on a flying roller coaster that I controlled.
What other outdoor adventures do you enjoy on Oahu when you’re not surfing?
Hiking and diving are two popular activities that I tend to gravitate toward when I have time.
What advice do you have for active visitors who are trying to plan their time in Oahu’s great outdoors?
Stay safe! As a firefighter I’m very in tune with the trouble that visitors get into in Hawaii. When at the ocean, check with the lifeguards. If there aren’t any lifeguards, don’t go in the water. Always take a cell phone when embarking on a hike. Do not start the hike in the afternoon, because if you get lost, you may have to spend the night in the mountains. If it’s raining in the mountains, do not go. It’s extremely dangerous due to flash flooding. Know your limits and always do stuff with at least one other person.
When you have active visitors from out of town, where do you like to take them ?
I start with the North Shore for the ocean experience (but only for viewing if the waves are up), then I take them around to the east side for a secluded swim in calmer waters.
