The call came just as I was about to pull the fluffy Norwegian duvet over my head: The aurora borealis had been spotted, and anyone who wanted to see it should get up on deck immediately.
Dashing up the stairs and throwing open the door, I was greeted by a sky dancing with shifting and flowing swirls, curls, loops and waves. The dark shapes of fellow cruise passengers clustered together, faces upturned and cameras ready. The magnificent night sky was alive, and we were all in awe.
For clients who want to see the northern lights, the Arctic is the place to be. That’s why Hurtigruten has offered Astronomy Voyages on the original Coastal Express route since 2008, and the cruise line also introduced its Northern Lights Promise (which offers a free cruise if the aurora doesn’t occur during an included sailing) in 2014.
Now, Hurtigruten is launching a new Signature Astronomy Voyage, starting with two departures in early 2026 (Jan. 30 and Feb. 13) and another on Oct. 23. The line has also announced two 2027 sailings, departing Jan. 29 and Feb. 12. (Additional dates may yet be announced.)
Surrounded by the Northern Lights
The roundtrip adventure starts and finishes in Oslo and unfolds over 15 days with 13 stops, venturing all the way up to Honningsvag and the North Cape. The journey is hosted by astronomer and author Tom Kerss, who holds the title of the world’s first (and, so far, only) chief aurora chaser. With a background that includes a stint at the Royal Observatory Greenwich, Kerss is an expert who makes learning fun, as I discovered on a preview of the Signature Astronomy Voyage onboard the recently refurbished MS Trollfjord. With Kerss as a personal guide and tutor, pursuing the aurora in the vast Arctic sky on a crisp night in the far north of Norway is a thrilling adventure.
The writer’s Signature Astronomy Voyage took place onboard the recently refurbished MS Trollfjord.
Credit: 2025 Laura BeausireIt’s more than just a bucket-list, once-in-a-lifetime viewing opportunity.
“Most people would just go out somewhere, stand in the snow, see the lights, go home and say they've done it,” Kerss said. “But if you want to go deeper and say, not only did you see the lights, but you also quite literally lived the lights for two weeks on a ship, immersed in the subject as deeply as is possible to be, then this is for you. In the Arctic, you stand under the auroral oval — that means that when the northern lights are in the sky, they aren't over your horizon, they're above your head. You are underneath them, and you see every part of them, and the movement and the intensity of them is so great compared to anything you can witness farther south that it's a night and day experience.”
Signature Experiences
Hurtigruten’s premium, all-inclusive Signature Voyages debuted in 2023, featuring upgrades including extended port visits; double the number of expert guides; comfortable cabins and suites; fitness and sauna facilities with floor-to-ceiling windows; new, elevated culinary experiences; and unlimited select drinks.
Following in the tradition of Hurtigruten’s Norway's Coastal Kitchen concept, 80% of the food served onboard is sourced from producers along the coastline during peak season. Trollfjord’s three dining venues include Flora, the main restaurant, plus Brasserie Arran — which serves a Sami-inspired menu created by culinary ambassador Máret Rávdná Buljo — and the upscale Rost, with a nightly five-course tasting menu.
Máret Rávdná Buljo is a culinary ambassador for the line.
Credit: 2025 HurtigrutenThe Signature Astronomy Voyages are exclusive, offering a small constellation of up to 40 guests a chance to explore the sky with Kerss. The onboard astronomy group shares messages and updates regarding each night’s conditions, with notifications of sightings that alert guests to grab their coat and head up on deck. Kerss likens the ship to a floating observatory, and even when viewing conditions aren’t perfect, he points to the fact that guests are always on the move, so that increases the likelihood of spotting the aurora during the trip.
During our journey, we interspersed nighttime aurora viewing with daytime excursions to Norwegian coastal villages, cities and cultural sites, including a stop at Alta’s Northern Lights Cathedral and a visit to the home of a Sami family. Signature Astronomy Voyage guests will also have a chance to check out the Tromso planetarium, and other special aurora-themed excursions are in development.
There is just this Arctic magic, the silent beauty of the lights playing in front of the stars, and it's like nothing else on Earth.
/Tom-Kerss-who-holds-the-title-of-chief-aurora-chas.jpg?tr=w-768%2Ch-432%2Cfo-auto "Tom Kerss, who holds the title of chief aurora chaser, helps guests see and understand the northern lights.")
Tom Kerss, who holds the title of chief aurora chaser, helps guests see and understand the northern lights.
Credit: 2025 Tom KerssKerss has crafted a new series of eight lectures for Signature guests, providing insights into the history and science of the aurora, taking a light-hearted look at how the northern lights come to life in art and popular culture, and even exploring the possibility that aurora research can aid in the search for alien life. Kerss will also touch on celestial topics including cosmic light, the moon, total solar eclipses, great comets and more. Two additional interactive masterclasses will teach guests how to forecast the aurora like a pro and offer advanced photo-processing tips.
“When you actually come here and you're on the chase, you will start to realize that there is much more to it than seeing the northern lights,” Kerss said. “Just being here in the Arctic, in the beautiful Arctic air under the Arctic sky, will become a much bigger part of the experience that you can only feel when you're here.”
Afloat under the stars and the blaze of the aurora, I confess that I was dazzled. And even a scientist like Kerss agrees.
“There is just this Arctic magic, the silent beauty of the lights playing in front of the stars, and it's like nothing else on Earth,” he said.
