What to Do in Barrio de las Letras, Madrid

In cities around the world, the areas that have traditionally housed writers, artists and other creative spirits are often some of the most popular places to visit. Whether it’s Montmartre in Paris or Greenwich Village in New York City, these neighborhoods have a unique history and a funky vibe that are inherently appealing to visitors.

Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras is such a place. Beginning in the 15th century, many of Spain’s greatest artists and writers have lived in this area in central Madrid. Today, in addition to its historical sights and museums, the neighborhood is a bustling hub of activity, full of bars, restaurants, boutiques and cafes. The area’s special character — combined with its proximity to so many of the city’s major attractions — makes it a must-do for visitors.

A perfect base for exploring Las Letras, as the area is commonly called, is Me Madrid Reina Victoria on the Plaza de Santa Ana. This 192-room hotel, operated by Melia Hotels and Resorts, provides modern and sophisticated accommodations in the heart of the action. While the guestrooms might be slightly smaller than American rooms, they more than make up for that in style and comfort. In addition to a great lobby restaurant, Ana La Santa, the property features Radio, a rooftop nightspot popular with locals that rages well into the night.

An artistic visit to Madrid can begin directly across from the hotel at Teatro Espanol, one of the most important historic theaters in the city. There has been a playhouse in this location since medieval times, and the current venue was established here officially in 1565.

A short walk away from the plaza is the home of one of Spain’s most famous writers, Miguel de Cervantes. The author of “Don Quijote,” Cervantes spent much of his adult life in Madrid. He lived and died at Calle de Cervantes 2, and today a plaque notes the location. Also nearby is Convento de las Trinitarias, where Cervantes was interred when he died. The convent is still in use, so it’s closed to the public, but the spot is marked by another plaque. Oddly, Cervantes’ actual remains were not identified by archeologists until 2015.

The next stop in Las Letras should be Casa de Lope de Vega, the former home of Lope de Vega, Spain’s premier playwright. It’s now a museum containing memorabilia from the writer’s life and work. In addition, Vega’s plays are often staged for the public in the garden of the building.

A 20-minute walk, or a five-minute taxi ride, brings visitors to the so-called “Golden Triangle of Art,” on the southern edge of Las Letras. This is where Madrid’s three major museums are located.

The Prado Museum is Spain’s national art museum. Considered one of the world’s greatest collections of European art, it features work by Francisco Goya, Diego Velazquez, El Greco, Jieronymus Bosch and others. Admission is free the last two hours of the day (but beware of the crowds).

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum houses works from the English, Dutch and German schools, as well as major Impressionist, Expressionist and European and American paintings from the 20th century. 

Finally, Reina Sofía Museum is dedicated to 20th-century art. Its world-class collection includes Pablo Picasso’s masterpiece “Guernica.”

From the Golden Triangle, visitors can get a bird’s-eye view of Las Letras at the nearby Circulo de Bellas Artes. The building’s seventh-floor rooftop cafe is a great place to chill out with a snack or cocktail surrounded by amazing views of the city.

From there, it’s a short stroll to the bustling Puerto del Sol, one of the city’s main plazas, as well as the massive Plaza Mayor. Both locations have been gathering spots for city residents for centuries.

Visitors who are feeling hungry should check out the Mercado San Miguel. This renovated iron-and-glass food hall next to Plaza Mayor, offers a wide variety of delicious tapas and a great selection of Spanish wines by the glass.

Travelers to Madrid could probably spend a year trying a different restaurant each meal in Las Letras, but those looking for a literary connection should head to Restaurante Botin, just off Plaza Mayor. El Botin, as it is known, was founded in 1725, and it’s widely acknowledged as one of the oldest continuously operated restaurants in the world. Its famous suckling pig dish was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, among many others.

As much as there is to see and do in the area during the day, advise clients to save their energy because Barrio de las Letras really comes alive after the sun goes down. Tourists will love spending an evening at a sidewalk cafe — shoulder to shoulder with the locals — eating tapas, sipping on cocktails and people watching. Your clients can enjoy life just as Madrid’s artists have been doing on these same streets for centuries.

The Details
Tourist Office of Spain
www.spain.info