An auberge is a French country inn that serves regional food, while an au-barge is a boat serenely floating through picturesque southern France with one of the best chefs in France in the galley. European Waterways’ Anjodi is a polished Dutch antique from 1929, completely restored like a small, quaint luxury hotel.
With just four nicely appointed staterooms with en-suite bathrooms, the trip is close to a private cruise. Since the Anjodi holds a maximum of eight guests, the level of personal attention is astonishing. Our British captain told me that, on a previous cruise, he was able to set up appointments for a client who wanted to buy a vineyard in France. The guest was able to view properties with a local sommelier and eventually bought a magnificent wine estate.
On another trip, the captain arranged for a guest who had been through the war in France to find his old battlefield. This kind of service is nearly unparalleled in the hospitality industry and a true asset for European Waterways, the owner and operater of the Anjodi through GoBarging.com.
Barging is by far one of the best ways to see France’s vineyard-filled countryside all the way to the Mediterranean at a slow, relaxing pace. Guests can ride bicycles (provided onboard) through the grapevines, take long walks along the towpaths among wildflowers or sit on deck with a drink from the open bar and watch the world go by.
In the mornings, we took in the fresh air after a French breakfast of fresh baguettes (our tour guide procured them at the crack of dawn), heavenly pastries, chocolate croissants, fruit, yogurt and cereal. The captain steered us down the peaceful Canal du Midi and through locks that yielded a rush of energy as the water filled up the holding area while all four crewmembers secured the barge with thick ropes. Their teamwork was as well-oiled as the old cogs of the iron doors that opened gently after we buoyed to the top of the keep.
Before or after lunch on deck we traveled in a new air-conditioned van to medieval and Roman villages. Among the ports were Pezenas, home to tempting antique stores and the playwright Moliere; Narbonne, a Roman port from 79 A.D.; Minerve, a hilltop 12th-century Cathar hideout in the limestone cliffs; and Carcassonne, a UNESCO site and medieval fortified citadel complete with a drawbridge and 52 watchtowers. Our guide gave us a short history about each excursion, took us to museums, bought us coffees and gave us plenty of free time to shop and roam through the cobblestone streets.
The captain, a wine aficionado trained by a top sommelier, shared techniques of wine appreciation and gave recommendations that even an expert would heed. He took us to a 14th-century chateau near Beziers where the owner showed us her family’s castle, bursting with antiques and frescos uncovered in a tower when they remodeled.
Afterward, the owner welcomed us into her private cellars where she uncorked a few of her best vintages and we enjoyed an impromptu wine-tasting course.
At night, we dined like French royalty on regional dishes prepared lovingly by a private chef who, in my opinion, well deserves a Michelin star. Typical dishes included a superb foie gras, decadent oysters on the half shell and a delicious duck braised in wine and were served with regional wines and followed by an array of sumptuous French cheeses. All meals started with a choice of aperitif, including muscat and pastis, a typical southern French anise liquor, and ended with desserts like lemon creme brulee and chocolate truffle mousse cake as well as after-dinner chocolates and brandies: Armagnacs and potent Marcs. By then, guests were rosy cheeked and well fed, talking merrily with fellow passengers and establishing common bonds.
Each evening the hundred-foot floating auberge docked either under a canopy of trees, near a field of wild Camargue horses or at an ancient winemaking chateau guests had visited during the day. We were rocked to sleep at night by a gentle bobbing motion, barely a whisper of being on the water, but enough to lull us into a deep slumber. It was bound to happen after so many glasses of wines perfectly paired with exquisite food and the impressive sights of the day.
The Anjodi offers departures from March 2 to Nov. 9, perfect for families traveling together, private groups, independent travelers or couples, young and old.
THE DETAILS
European Waterways
800-394-8630
www.gobarging.com
European Waterways offers a 10 percent commission to agents. Six-night cruises are priced from $3,590 per person, double, in 2008 and from $3,990 in 2009.
