My April trans-Atlantic crossing on the Queen Mary 2 from New
York to Southampton was a two-for-one experience: a wonderful
shipboard travel adventure as well as the chance to enjoy an
uninterrupted glamorous and sophisticated lifestyle for six whole
days!
What was it like? Think Crystal or Silversea ships without port
calls and aboard a considerably larger vessel. Launched with much
fanfare in January 2004, the Queen Mary 2 is the world’s largest
passenger ship. She’s decorated in marvelous muted colors with rich
wood tone accents, amazingly comfortable furniture and some $6
million worth of art. What’s not to like?
I thoroughly enjoyed the pampering and care evident on the
six-day trans-Atlantic crossing. Excellent personalized service was
the order of the day from the moment I checked in, through a speedy
boarding process that included a white-gloved attendant escorting
me to the cabin.
Anyone who has sailed a trans-Atlantic crossing can tell you
that they are indeed an experience. Quite different from cruises
with a heavy-duty party atmosphere, crossings are an elegant way of
getting from one continent to another the stuff books and movies
are made of as well as a salute to an earlier time when travel was
a gracious adventure.
Queen Mary 2, like other liners before her (including the Queen
Elizabeth 2, which has made close to 800 trips across the
Atlantic), was built for crossings. The 17-deck, 151,000-ton ship
is longer than four football fields. She retains a traditional
nautical quality, blending 21st-century technology and engineering
with large public areas, good-sized staterooms and minimal noise
and vibration levels even at extraordinary speed. Powered by two
gas turbines and four diesel engines, her normal cruising speed is
between 24 and 26 knots, with an impressive maximum speed of
30-plus knots.
But there’s nothing fast-paced about life on board. On the Queen
Mary 2, passengers “come with an expectation of a past when things
like fine dining and history were more important. Elegance and
formality are alive and well,” said hotel director David
Stephenson. It is “like driving a classic car but still enjoying
air conditioning and a radio.”
Indeed, highlights for me included the afternoon high tea
service and the two formal balls. Both of them the black and white
ball, and the ascot ball were very well attended, and the ball
gowns and jewelry were fabulous.
Crossings are not for everyone, nor an ideal “first cruise.” A
trans-Atlantic crossing is perfect for veteran cruisers who have
sailed the Caribbean and the Mediterranean many times, ogled the
fjords in Alaska and gone through the Panama Canal. And for those
who enjoy “sea days,” a crossing is perfect.
You’ll never want for activities during sea days on the Queen
Mary 2. There’s an 8,000-volume library, outstanding lectures from
Oxford University professors and the only planetarium at sea,
Illusions, which features a variety of programs about the
constellations at four half-hour viewings daily and shows movies as
well. Many first-run films are also offered in the staterooms. The
Canyon Ranch Gym was particularly impressive, as was the adjacent
Canyon Ranch Spa. I had a great facial and a terrific aromatherapy
massage with lots of lavender, which is so relaxing. The
hydrotherapy suite with steam, sauna, footbath and a wonderful pool
was another plus, and thoroughly enjoyable! The gym features
state-of-the-art equipment and plenty of room between machines,
which is not always the case on ships.
Many people discuss the “class” concept of QM2 and in fact they
are referring to the dining rooms. The only part of the cruise
impacted by the location of a guest’s stateroom is where that
passenger dines. Everything else on the ship is open to all
passengers.
Guests with cabins in “Grill” categories dine in the Princess
(junior suites) or Queens Grill (more elaborate junior suites,
suites, penthouse, royal suites and higher), where they enjoy
open-seating dining. All other guests dine in the beautiful
two-sitting, three-tiered Brittania, a tribute to liners of an
earlier day with its sweeping staircase, huge and dramatic wall
hanging of the New York skyline, and a menu similar to the one in
the Grill restaurants. I had lunch in Brittania one day and nothing
on the menu tempted me. I asked for a simple chef’s salad and was
quite pleased with the result. The attitude and service were both
superb.
Grill guests also can be served full breakfasts from room
service, while others get a Continental offering in their cabins.
Grill guests enjoy butler service, can receive a daily newspaper in
their suite each morning, and have stationery on which their name
is imprinted.
Alternative dining options include the stellar Todd English,
named for the celebrity chef, and featuring a Mediterranean menu;
Chef’s Galley, where a chef prepares the three-course meal served
to guests in front of them; and the Kings Court where Asian,
Italian and Carvery menus offer Lido-style foods and tea. Both Todd
English and Chef’s Galley require reservations and a $30 per person
fee. Lunch in Todd English is $20. Smoking is prohibited in dining
rooms and limited to specific areas of lounges. The aptly named
Churchill’s Cigar Lounge is where stogie aficionados do their
thing.
All cabins come equipped with interactive television that is
almost like having a personal bellboy. Passengers can order drinks,
choose a video or book a spa treatment from their stateroom. For
example, I asked my butler to book a table in Todd English, but I
could have done it myself on the television/computer. I did use the
interactive television to check the weather forecast, which is
always important in the middle of the Atlantic.
Entertainment is spelled with a capital “E” on QM2. One
memorable production, called “Zing Went the Strings,” was a tribute
to Judy Garland. Kyle Esplin was another standout. His piano
playing skills so completely mimicked Jerry Lee Lewis that I
expected to look up and see the rock star at any second. Other
performers in the ship’s many lounges were a bit more subdued, but
every bit as enjoyable.
Very few children were aboard during our crossing, but those who
were aboard and participated in the children’s program, appeared to
have a good time. The children’s area is roomy and well planned and
features authentic British nanny service.
In March 2005, Cunard launched White Star Service, named after
the venerable line with which Cunard merged in 1934. White Star
service is a training program for officers and staff designed to
acquaint them with Cunard’s impressive 165-year history.
“We felt we needed to go back to our roots,” said
Stephenson.
The training program focuses on three words, which are inscribed
on a black enamel pin worn by all staff: legendary, elegant and
memorable.
I can’t think of three more appropriate words to describe my
experience on the Queen Mary 2.