Hotel Review: Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa in Indian Wells, California

I have had the travel bug since my first trip abroad, back when I was in college and a 35-day European itinerary sounded incredible — and doable. Sometime between then and now, I have lost a bit of my enthusiasm for that type of adventure. Especially in a COVID-19-impacted world, and with two young children by my side, I prefer my travel to be simpler.

A visit to Southern California’s greater Palm Springs area checks that “simple” box for me — simple and satisfying and rejuvenating. In Indian Wells, Renaissance Esmeralda Resort and Spa offers all the amenities my family needs in a getaway, and in one eye-catching setting.

An Updated Family-Friendly Resort in Palm Springs

A multimillion-dollar renovation of the property was completed just before the pandemic began in early 2020. Today’s guests are treated to updated rooms and suites with stylish midcentury modern decor. My eldest daughter Olivia, at 9 years old, loved the graphic wallpaper in our suite, and noted its gold cone lamps and sculptural chairs. Lottie, at age 2, loved watching geese and ducks skitter and stop in the large ponds below our balcony, the Santa Rosa Mountains looming in the background.

When we weren’t lounging in our suite (or bouncing on the bed, as kids do), we lounged at the pool. The zero-entry, sandy beach side of the main pool is as great for toddlers as it is stress-reducing for parents. Lottie could “swim” with her hands on the floor of the pool and her head above water, or she could strut about independently to fetch a sand bucket or her Mickey Mouse pool toy.

Olivia swam the length of the expansive pool and made friends with another guest her age. Then, they were off to play in the hot tubs and adjacent waterfall pool. (Pro tip: Booking a nearby cabana adds even more ease to the scene, plus guaranteed shade for the entirety of your day.)

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Olivia and her new friend managed to turn our weekend into an epic sort of play date. They had us coordinating meetings at the ping pong or shuffleboard tables near the lobby. They also met at Camp Esmeralda, the on-site kids’ club. In the activity room, they found rainbows of beads, paper, popsicle sticks, stickers and more. Wooden art and chime kits were a hit. Olivia’s peace sign, painted in blotches of blue and green like Earth, made its way home with us to be playroom decor.

Children- (And Adult-) Approved Cuisine

Despite our initial intentions to go off the resort for at least a meal or two, we found that we did not need to leave. 

We ate delicious sushi rolls and miso soup at Glo Sushi on our first night and went back for seconds the next. The sushi bar is right next to The Place, a full bar and restaurant in the lobby with a menu the kids preferred. Next to our sushi sat buttered pasta and pizza. And for breakfast we enjoyed patio dining at Cava, set just aside from the pool deck. Lemon ricotta pancakes and coffee here were a good antidote to my early-morning wake-up time with Lottie.

Adult Wellness Options Aplenty

My husband and I try to sneak in some sort of solo respite when we travel, even if it’s 30 minutes of reading alone in a lobby. We had superior options at Renaissance Esmeralda, though. 

I headed to Spa Esmeralda and spent a glorious 50 minutes with a facialist. She skillfully refreshed my face with masks and serums by Eminence, an organic skincare line I already loved.

My husband’s alone time allowed him to practice his golf swing at the on-site driving range. (Two 18-hole championship golf courses welcome avid players, too.)

As we drove away from Renaissance Esmeralda, Olivia asked when we would be back — the ultimate sign of a good vacation. I told her we could return soon, perhaps with friends.  And maybe we will explore a bit further afield, I thought, to The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens or downtown Palm Springs.

Or, maybe we will just stay put.

The Details
Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa