What It's Like to Stay at the New Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental in Madrid

I had missed Madrid, with its many world-class museums, magnificent palaces and parks, and centuries-old tapas bars.

Though the Spanish capital is just a 2.5-hour train ride from my home in Barcelona, it was only after the country’s state of alarm expired in May — when travel restrictions ended between the provinces after nearly 15 months — that I was once again able to visit.

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I was eager to check out two long-awaited newcomers to the city’s luxury hotel scene: Four Seasons Hotel Madrid and the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid. Both properties were ambitious renovations of iconic buildings — taking years and costing millions of euros — and their recent openings have created plenty of buzz.

Four Seasons Hotel Madrid

Centrally located just a few blocks from the Puerta del Sol, one of the city’s busiest squares, Four Seasons Hotel Madrid is within walking distance of major attractions, including Plaza Mayor and all the shopping along the stately Gran Via. 

Opened last October, the hotel is part of the new Centro Canalejas, a project that combined seven buildings and took nearly eight years (and an estimated 600 million euros) to complete. Along with the 200-room hotel and 22 private residences, the complex includes a luxury shopping arcade and a gourmet food market, both of which have been delayed due to the pandemic but are set to come online at the end of the year.

I could feel the grandeur the moment I stepped into the lobby, which is set in the oldest building, El Palacio de la Equitativa, a former insurance company and banking headquarters dating from 1887. The palatial space — which also houses the El Patio lounge, a glamorous spot for afternoon tea or cocktails — features a beautifully restored stained-glass ceiling, original green marble columns topped with gilded capitals and a white marble staircase flanked by gleaming brass railings. 

The hotel has achieved a wonderful balance of the historical and contemporary, especially on the guest floors, whose corridors are lined with edgy artwork from emerging Spanish artists. Room configurations and views vary widely given the complex nature of the project, but all are quite spacious, starting at 484 square feet for a Superior Room overlooking a courtyard with a vertical garden. Others, like my sixth-floor Deluxe Sevilla Room, face the city and surrounding neighborhoods, with fantastic views stretching all the way to the mountains.

Excepting the highest-end suites, which maintained many original historical details, rooms are thoroughly modern, with plush, neutral-toned furnishings, warm woods and understated artwork. Best was the enormous white-marble bathroom with a freestanding tub (there’s also a separate shower) where I treated myself to a long bubble bath using the hotel’s Hermes amenities while gazing out on the city through floor-to-ceiling windows.  

The top-floor Dani restaurant, with a menu from three-starred Michelin chef Dani Garcia, is clearly the hotel’s showpiece — a colorful, lounge-like space with a large wraparound terrace and fabulous city vistas. Dinner attracts a fashionable local crowd, and reservations are essential, but I preferred the far quieter breakfast service, which includes a selection of healthy smoothies and a number of variations on eggs Benedict.

Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid

Spain’s first luxury hotel, The Ritz, opened its doors in 1910, in a stunning Belle Epoque building situated in the heart of the “Golden Triangle of Art,” an area that’s home to the most important museums in the city: the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Reina Sofia Museum of Modern Art. Mandarin Oriental took over the property in 2015 and began a three-year, top-to-bottom renovation — completed in April —recovering many original details of the hotel that had been lost over subsequent restorations, while bringing it firmly into the 21st century.

It had been a decade since I’d last visited the property, and the first thing I noticed upon entering was how bright and airy the new design feels. Where previously the ceiling had been covered over, light now pours into the lobby and the adjacent Palm Court through a vast crystal canopy roof, which was re-created from hotelier Cesar Ritz’s original plans. The building’s rich architectural heritage has been beautifully preserved — gilt-topped pillars and chandeliers abound — but the interiors also feel wholly fresh and modern, with subtle contemporary sculpture and custom artwork scattered throughout.

In the hotel’s new incarnation there are 153 guestrooms and suites (reduced from 162); all have been enlarged and most notably, bathrooms have been expanded and modernized, with marble floors, Dolomite stone walls and freestanding tubs. Superior rooms overlook the glass-topped Palm Court, while many in the Deluxe category look out onto the leafy Plaza de la Lealtad or the Prado. I was upgraded to the aptly named Prado suite, which featured large, elegantly furnished, separate living and sleeping areas where I soaked up great views of the neighboring museum.

Of the hotel’s five restaurants and bars — all overseen by celebrated Michelin-starred chef Quique Dacosta — I chose the famous El Jardin del Ritz, where I dined on grilled octopus and charcoal-roasted sea bass in a lush garden setting. Be sure to reserve a table ahead of time, as the outdoor space is wildly popular, especially among well-heeled Madrilenos.

COVID-19 Protocols: Know Before You Go

As of June 7, Spain welcomed U.S. travelers without quarantine restrictions, providing they have been fully vaccinated against COVID-19 for at least 14 days prior to arrival. 

In Madrid, as in the rest of Spain, masks need to be worn at all times outside, on public transit, in taxis and inside museums, theaters, markets and shops. You may also be asked to sanitize your hands before entering an establishment.

Madrid’s bars and restaurants are currently open for both indoor and outdoor dining, though you will encounter fewer tables and capacity restrictions, as well as limited hours of operation. Unless you’re seated or actively drinking or eating, you will need to wear a mask when inside (for example, when using the restroom).

Regarding hotels, you can expect to have your temperature checked by an electronic thermometer each time you enter. Masks must be worn throughout common areas —except when seated for eating or drinking. There are restrictions on the number of guests allowed in gyms, pools and spas, and you may need to make an appointment in advance. A full list of COVID-19 policies can be found for the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid here and for the Four Seasons Hotel Madrid here.