Review: Black Desert Resort in Southern Utah

One of the best things about traveling with young kids is that their thoughts are never filtered. You hear exactly what they’re thinking the moment they think it.

When my family arrived at Black Desert Resort in Ivins, Utah, just outside the city of St. George, my 6-year-old daughter, Lottie, gave her honest review.

“Wow, this place is beautiful,” she said.

The luxury resort, which covers 600 acres and is still expanding, was thoughtfully built near the red rock mountains of Greater Zion. The hotel never overtakes the scenery; no matter where guests are on site, awe-inspiring, copper-colored peaks are visible, as they reach up to the bright blue sky. Meanwhile, the green fairways of the hotel’s championship golf course are set in striking black lava fields. No matter where I stood on the property, abundant natural beauty was within view.

Even my 13-year-old daughter, Olivia (who in her teen years often observes silently rather than emoting), chimed in with an “It’s gorgeous here."

I shared a smile with my wife. Coming from the urban grind of Los Angeles, I knew this respite in nature was just what our family needed.

A Gateway to the Outdoors

Zion National Park is, without a doubt, the premier outdoor experience in Southern Utah, but it’s more than an hour’s drive from Black Desert Resort. If clients have the time and have never visited the park, it’s worth the trip, and the resort concierge can help arrange guided tours, including hikes through the Narrows or canyoneering, as well as transportation.

However, Snow Canyon State Park is just a 10-minute drive away — and considerably less crowded than Zion. (In fact, the red rock mountains you can see from resort are the peaks of Snow Canyon.) My family loved spending a few hours exploring the easy hikes through red sand and, despite having a 6-year-old and a teen, we were able to find trails that accommodated everyone. Jenny’s Canyon Trail (just half a mile long) was a highlight; the path leads to a slot canyon and an overlook of the canyon below. Hidden Pinyon (1.5 miles) was a more moderate hike that went back off the main road and into the mountains. We also made sure to check out the red sand dunes, which travelers can run and play in. The kids loved bouldering on the red rocks, as well, but clients should make sure to do so only in designated areas.

RELATED: How to Book Zion National Park

Black Desert Resort offers daily guided hikes through Snow Canyon, as well as e-bike rentals for those who want to cruise the park. And for anyone seeking a little rejuvenation, the property also offers yoga classes with a view — groups gather on a flat area of the mountains overlooking the canyon.

Other outdoor activities include pickleball, kayaking and paddleboarding at a nearby reservoir and stargazing, all coordinated through the concierge.

Golf at Black Desert Resort

The resort has one of the most stunning courses I’ve ever seen. Designed by Tom Weiskopf, the course has 19 perfectly manicured holes (there’s an extra hole with an island green “for fun”) and they’re all set among natural black lava fields. It is very challenging — an out-of-bounds hit will bounce like a pinball across lava rock and eventually be unretrievable.

RELATED: A Guide to Golfing in Greater Zion, Utah

There are also more blind tee shots and dog legs than I’m used to; it’s why the pro shop offers a forecaddie for an extra charge. In my case, my forecaddie was essential in spotting my errant tee shots and in reading the undulating greens. It’s a championship course for a reason, having hosted both the PGA Tour and LPGA Tour. An added luxury? Drinks and snacks are included with the round. I’m not usually someone who eats while playing, but I couldn’t help ordering a chicken burrito at the turn.

Golf amenities include a huge pro shop with clothing and gear, an 18-hole putting green, a dedicated chipping area and a driving range with Trackman launch monitors.

Relax and Rejuvenate

After a long day of adventuring, Plume Spa & Wellness is the place to refresh and relax. The recently opened, 15,000-square-foot spa features relaxation rooms, an outdoor pool exclusively for spa guests, myriad treatment options and more. After our morning hiking in Snow Canyon, my wife got a massage and spent time in the sauna.

Those who forego the spa but still want a place to relax can head to the pool deck, where two pools and a hot tub overlook the golf course’s 19th hole. Private cabanas can be reserved with the concierge.

Suites to Love

The resort features four collections of rooms. The Hotel Collection offers traditional hotel rooms with two queen-size beds or a king; the Resort Collection includes suites with kitchens and patios; the Plume Wellness Collection, comprised of eight rooms that focus on rest and rejuvenation (and are connected to the Plume Spa & Wellness Center); and the Terrace Collection, which offers palatial, home-like units great for groups.

My family and I stayed very comfortably in a two-bedroom suite from the Terrace Collection. We loved having the living room as a place to gather at night and play card games, and we used the kitchen for basics — keeping water cold or reheating leftovers. The kitchen was fully stocked with utensils and cookware, so guests could also cook or prepare a lunch to take on the go. When we weren’t dining at an on-site restaurant, we ordered takeout — Red Fort Cuisine of India is a beloved Indian restaurant nearby that I recommend — and enjoyed the meal we ate at our giant dining table.

For larger parties and families traveling together, an entire building of the Resort Collection can be rented out to provide unmatched privacy.

Dining With a View

Is there anything that defines a resort experience more than the quality of its dining? Clients who stay at Black Desert won’t be disappointed with the options, starting with Basalt, a steakhouse with a view of the golf course and Snow Canyon State Park.

My wife and I had an adults-only dinner at Basalt where each dish was exquisitely plated but, more importantly, delicious. We started with an upscale take on a traditional Mormon dish, “funeral potatoes,” which neither of us had ever had before, nor even heard of; it consisted of fried balls of potatoes served with pork belly. For mains, we ordered (and loved) the ribeye and tenderloin. Desert was a standout course, though. The “Apple Pie Apple” was described by our server as a “reconstructed apple pie,” where the pastry chef shaped whipped cream into the form of an apple, dusted it red and stuffed apple pie filling inside. A chocolate stick on top served as its stem.

Clients looking for a sunset sip or post-golf drinks will likely head to Flo, the resort’s bar overlooking the pool and hole 19.  The menu features classic cocktails with a regional spin and a limited food menu.

Latitude, the resort’s main restaurant, offers more family-friendly options; the Baja-inspired menu includes tacos, carne asada, ceviche and more. Breakfast is served here daily; clients can expect a mix of American fare and Southwestern classics.

The 20th Hole is the resort’s sports bar with standard fare: chicken wings, nachos, burgers and sandwiches. Upscale items include seared salmon and Guiness-braised short ribs. Televisions play current sporting events and golf simulators are available, too.

Coming Soon

The resort is currently expanding, adding a water park, additional rooms and suites and a promenade with shops and dining. The retail area will be open to the public.