“Ding ding ding!”
“Do you hear that noise?” I asked my 3-year-old daughter.
“Yes,” she replied, her eyes wide.
“That’s a trolley — just outside our room,” I said.
She smiled. Mission accomplished.
I could see her making the connection between our location (The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco in Nob Hill) and her favorite television show, “Daniel Tiger’s Neighborhood,” where the creatures of a make-believe community get around exclusively by a charming red vehicle named Trolley.
San Francisco may not be home to a singing kid tiger, but I needed a hook to introduce my daughter — who is used to vacationing in sun-and-sand destinations — to the joys of a city getaway. And the hotel’s location off the California Street cable car line was the perfect way to draw her in.
What the hotel lacks in beaches and pools (and a spa), it makes up for in its reflection of much of what I love about San Francisco, from its seasonal food and its hilly streets to its moody weather and early California roots.
The nine-story property takes up an entire city block and looks like a capitol building thanks to a column-filled neoclassical facade that dates to 1909. Complementing this charming entrance are the friendly bellhops clad in top hats.
And inside, the grandeur continues, albeit in simpler ways: My daughter and I approved of the bespoke scent wafting through the lobby and admired the elaborate orchid centerpiece, before we parted ways to check in (me) and color an illustration of the city (her). I appreciated the tot-sized Ritz Kids table, smartly placed adjacent to the check-in counter, and a few steps from The Lounge, where we headed for dinner after dropping off our luggage.
First Stop: The Lounge Restaurant
With red leather banquettes, a cozy fireplace, moody black-and-white photography, dark-wood paneled walls and a smart casual dress code, The Lounge is a favorite for power lunches and cocktail-heavy work dinners, to be sure.
The Lounge offers neighborhood-themed cocktails, seasonal eats and indulgent options in a buzzy atmosphere.
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San FranciscoBut my daughter and 8-month-old son rose to the occasion of our surroundings, enjoying the warm service and allowing me and my husband to wash off the fresh memory of our seven-hour road trip from Los Angeles and get into vacation mode.
Boozy showmanship kicked off our multicourse meal. My husband ordered the Northbeach Negroni, featuring an ice cube bearing the hotel’s logo, and I sipped the Karl the Fog cocktail, which pays homage to the city’s persistent cloud cover with a bubble top made of aquafaba that dispersed into a mist.
We enjoyed views of towering buildings just outside the window while we ate a meal that was equal parts seasonal (summer tomato soup and a farmers’ market salad) and hearty (burgers and truffle fries).
A seasonal seabass dish with achiote marinade, forbidden black rice, charred corn, wilted spinach and cherry tomatoes
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San FranciscoThe Club Lounge Is the Ultimate Convenience
A near-instant breakfast and never-ending snacking are musts with young kids, so we were thankful to take advantage of the Club Lounge, which offers around-the-clock complimentary food service and drinks for guests staying in a Club room.
Breakfast was fully stocked with my kids’ favorites (fruit, yogurt, bagels, eggs, waffles and oatmeal), and I appreciated being able to secure their food in the same time it took for me to conjure a latte from the espresso machine.
The Club Lounge offers meals, mid-meal snacks and a comfortable area to play games and relax.
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San FranciscoAnother benefit to lounge access is the wealth of seating arrangements within the main dining area and the bonus room, where groups can easily choose from couches, benches, chairs, tables and coffee tables for their ideal set-up.
The Club Lounge was also a wonderful place to post up after sightseeing, when we all needed a quick pick-me-up, and especially after putting the kids to bed, when I snuck out of our room for a sweet treat and some much-needed solo time.
It doesn’t get more convenient than the Club Lounge, which excels at offering complimentary elevated quick bites for guests staying on the Club floor.
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San FranciscoGlass jars of candies made me feel like the kid for a change — but I equally enjoyed elevated options such as the coconut mango panna cotta and coffee apple fig cannoli with my tea.
Afternoon Tea Pop-Up With Veuve Clicquot
Our late summer visit coincided with an afternoon tea pop-up by Veuve Clicquot in the hotel’s sun-drenched Courtyard Terrace, where the champagne brand’s self-proclaimed “brilliant golden yellow” and white-striped umbrellas and lounge chairs fit right in with the space’s red brick foundation, sculpted hedges, herb garden and grand water fountain, surrounded by city views.
The Courtyard Terrace is ideal for events — here is its set-up for Veuve Clicquot afternoon tea in the warmer months.
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San FranciscoDuring my kids’ naptime, I took the elevator down to the terrace and arrived in a different world. I caught up with my best friend over a dreamy spread of beverages (Veuve Clicquot brut rose champagne and tea) as well as five savory bites — including cucumber and smoked salmon tea sandwiches and a mini vegetable quiche topped with creme fraiche.
However, nothing could outdo the three-tier tower of sweets, featuring peach scones with lemon curd, a blueberry teacake topped with an edible flower, chocolate hazelnut shortbread, a mixed berry tartlet and mango passionfruit mousse on a coconut sable.
My friend and I easily whiled away hours here, which meant my kids were able to join after they woke up. My daughter could not believe her luck when, bleary eyed, she sat down to the table and a tower of treats appeared before her. Luckily, she had plenty of room to burn off the subsequent sugar high, even architecting the Veuve Jenga set into a luxurious makeshift compound for her bunny.
The three-level tower of afternoon tea sweets
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco(For the cooler months, the afternoon tea with Veuve Clicquot is moving indoors to the hotel’s Parallel 37 restaurant.)
336 Guestrooms, Including 60 Suites
At 800 square feet, the Club Executive Suite will be a great fit for most families thanks to the ability to close off the living area from the bedroom and add a connecting guestroom. Heavy on dark blues, white and cream colors, the decor features velvets, marble, gold, patterned carpeting, crown molding, textured wallpaper and dark wood. The overall effect is sophisticated and traditional, but comfortable and relaxing.
An Executive Suite, one of 60 suites
Credit: 2024 The Ritz-Carlton, San FranciscoThe oversize marble bathroom was a natural congregation spot for our family, where my kids enjoyed bathtime in the tub with a Ritz Kids rubber duck. Complementing the overall feeling of the hotel, the rooms felt like an antidote to the ultra-modern techy aspect of the city.
What to Do Nearby
After breakfast at the Club Lounge, we walked the couple of steps from the hotel’s entrance to California Street, where we waited to go on our red trolley (er, cable car). We opted for a thrilling ride downhill past Chinatown to the Embarcadero, where we sampled bites at the food hall of the Ferry Building and took in views of the Bay Bridge.
From there, we were off on a 10-minute oceanside stroll to the Exploratorium, an impressive, experiential museum that our entire family is itching to return to.
We could have spent the next morning exploring other nearby hotspots, such as Union Square or Fisherman’s Wharf, but we decided to grant my daughter’s parting request — one more ride on the trolley.
