Review: Six Senses Vana in India

I arrived at Six Senses Vana clutching my stomach. Traffic in India is notoriously chaotic, and the serpentine roads and smell of diesel had led to an unusual level of nausea for me that day.

Just when I thought the chilled washcloth and candied ginger in my private transport wouldn’t be enough, we arrived. In a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it turn away from clang and clamor, the vehicle whooshed down a tree-lined drive to the entrance of the luxury resort. 

Within minutes, I knew the journey to this wellness retreat had been worth it. With a crimson dot on my forehead and herbal tea in my belly, I was whisked away to don a white cotton kurta (a loose-fitting tunic) and arrive, transformed, to my pre-massage health consultation.

Six Senses’ First Wellness Retreat

All Six Senses properties offer robust spa offerings, but Six Senses Vana is the brand’s first wellness retreat. Every stay is full-board and includes a wellness consultation, daily treatments and airport transfers.

Cradled inside 21 acres of forest and orchards are 66 rooms, 16 suites and four “casas” — two- or three-bedroom lodgings with duplex-style layouts. Each room and suite has a private balcony overlooking the forest or gardens, which served as the perfect spot for lighting a stick of incense each morning and journaling my thoughts before breakfast.

Unfortunately, expansive panoramas aren’t possible with urban chaos just through the trees (remarkably, most sound is kept at bay); despite its Himalaya-adjacent location, the environment is more “nurtured in the forest” than “transcendent with a view.”

Something clients should know: This property is rebranded, not new. Vana, a minimalist, sand-colored sanctuary dedicated to holistic health, opened in 2014 with a team of highly trained therapists, including Ayurvedic doctors and Tibetan medicine practitioners from Men-Tsee-Khang, an institute established by the Dalai Lama. Back then, phones and photography were banned.

Over the years, Vana developed a cult following of wellness travelers in the know. Last fall, Six Senses took over, and veteran guests expressed deep concern about their sanctuary being overtaken by an international resort brand. 

Some things have changed, to be fair. The minimum stay has been reduced to three nights — the perfect sampler for curious travelers, according to management. Personally, I suggest at least five nights to sink into the retreat’s rhythm. Additionally, morning yoga classes are now more beginner-oriented, and biohacking devices such as sleep trackers and zip-on compression massage boots are available.

Perhaps most striking: Six Senses Vana is now open to children. I only saw one child during my stay — a preteen on retreat with her mother — and I didn’t find her presence distracting, but I imagine someone on a serious health journey may mind dining alongside families or dealing with splashes and squeals at the pool.

Wellness Above All

Everything at Six Senses Vana is designed around wellness, including the rules: Personal devices are banned in communal spaces and treatment rooms, and there are daily “quiet hours.” The introspective environment is ideal for solo travelers or duos with complementary health goals.

Clients will start their wellness retreat with a consultation and basic health screening. Their appointed doctor will then create a personalized schedule of therapies, which might include Ayurvedic treatments, Tibetan medicine treatments, reflexology, acupuncture, Watsu (water therapy) or “Yogayam” — a special hell in which the instructor pushed my body into extended yoga poses and held them there. (As promised, I did feel amazing afterward.) The schedule is somewhat preset if a client books a specific program for weight management, stress reduction or sleep.

In the quiet hours between activities or therapies, guests often hang out in the Kila, the soaring, light-filled main shared space with a reflection pool. It’s an ideal spot for reading, journaling, sipping tea and even napping.

Hyperlocal, Healthful Food 

While the cuisine at Six Senses Vana certainly has the look and listed calorie count of health foods, I was happy to discover that it also tasted good. The seasonal, hyperlocal menu changes daily, and ingredients are always fresh, never frozen. 

As you’d expect from a wellness retreat, dietary restrictions are easily accommodated. Fresh fruits and veggies abound; gluten-free items are clearly marked. To be safe, however, clients with allergies should always remind their direct dining attendant.

Additional Activities and Amenities

My stay at Six Senses Vana was calming but never boring: Aside from treatments, I had opportunities to enjoy the gym, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a meditation cave, walking trails and tennis courts. 

There is also a daily schedule of complimentary activities. One day might include morning yoga, a circuit training session, a cooking lesson, yoga nidra (meditative sleep yoga), raga (music) therapy and a lecture about reflexology. During my stay, there were also two outdoor film screenings: “Jerry Maguire” and “Inception.” Off-property hikes and day trips are offered at an additional charge.