I’ve been called many things in my life both good and bad but never
had I been called a male lion. Yet here I was on a warm Sunday
morning, somewhere deep out in the Maasai Mara savannah, bending
down with a throng of Maasai cattle-herding boys from about 5 to 15
years of age, who were all eager to touch my humidity-challenged
“lion’s mane” hair. Some giggled, some shrieked a bit, but none
were too shy to give it a go After all, when one lives in a dung
hut surrounded by wilderness for hundreds of miles in every
direction, it’s not every day one gets to touch a
mzungu’s
hair. That’s what I was in Kenya a mzungu, which is Swahili for
foreigner, or white person.
Oleshargegilololtoriroi (thankfully also known as Joseph,) the
Maasai guide who escorted me on this nature walk, was decked out,
as always, in his flashy traditional garb of red plaid wraparound
blanket, no end of colorful beads and an exotic leather braided
headgear that made him look positively royal. He translated between
the boys and me, and as we walked off, we chatted for several
hours, discussing the vast differences in our cultures and
lifestyles.
Our trip was coordinated by Africa Adventure Consultants (AAC),
a firm specializing in custom safaris and other types of travel in
south and east Africa mostly Kenya and Tanzania. Kent Redding, the
president of AAC, uses his expertise and extensive background
knowledge gained from living and working for years in that region
of Africa to guide others in designing their trips. This area is
famous for the year-round Great Migration, when millions of
wildebeests and zebras migrate across the Serengeti and Mara plains
and savannahs in thunderous herds. Redding planned our trip along
with Heritage Hotels, a Kenya-based chain offering three levels of
properties throughout safari country and the Indian Ocean
coastline. Heritage recently launched its new Adventurers’ Club and
Young Rangers’ Club programs designed to keep children and teens
entertained and educated about local wildlife and culture while on
safari with their families.
Many travelers to Africa combine their trips part game-park
safari, part beach resort and our trip, for instance, ended at the
beach in Mombasa. Flying into Kenya’s capitol city of Nairobi, most
opt, as we did, to spend one day there visiting the local Elephant
Orphanage and the Rothschild Giraffe Sanctuary. The next day, we
were on a bush plane, off to Samburu Intrepids, the Heritage
game-park lodge. At Samburu, we slept in large constructed tents
which were very comfortable, cozy and well-equipped, in good beds
surrounded by romantic mosquito netting. My cabin looked right onto
the gently flowing river, in front of which mischievous, determined
little black-faced monkeys scampered up and down trees and watched
me intently, hoping to get inside my tent. The staff told me
they’ve caught monkeys inside the tents when guests accidentally
leave them unzipped trying to apply lipstick and attempting to use
cameras.
At Heritage’s lodges, game rides are typically offered two or
three times a day, always at about 6:30 a.m. sometimes again at
10:30 a.m. and last at 3:30 p.m. The rides are in incredibly sturdy
six- to seven-passenger Land Rovers, and they get through terrain
that is the kind I was sure we’d be stuck in. Rather like a bucking
bronco ride at a Wild West park, we’d set out in peaceful hunt of
the so-called Samburu Special Five Grevy’s zebras, reticulated
giraffes, Somali ostriches, long-necked gerenuk antelope and Beisa
oryx, along with elephants, lions, leopards and others. It isn’t
difficult we spotted plenty on every ride, although some animals,
such as zebras, eluded us throughout the entire trip. One time,
seeing about six species all together ostriches, wart hogs,
Thompson gazelles, Topi antelope, dik diks it reminded me of the
opening scene of “The Lion King.”
The cultures of eastern Africa are just as diverse and thrilling
Maasai and Samburu peoples living in their ancient lifestyles of
dung huts and herding cattle, dressed in what must be the most
colorful and flashy costumes I’ve ever seen. No number of beaded
necklaces and bracelets is too much, and somehow, it works. The
guides from the lodges arrange visits to a nearby village, and can
usually accommodate a primary school visit as well. The villagers
have adapted to tourism while keeping their culture virtually
intact (although you might see a wristwatch or two peeking out).
They invite visitors to enter a hut and hear a short talk about
their lifestyle, while the women outside lay out their handicrafts
for sale. Everything is priced for bargaining that’s the norm.
There are always a few villagers who speak enough English to
translate for the rest, and usually, a dance or song will be
performed to honor visitors as well.
In the evenings before dinner, Heritage guests meet in the lodge
for slide presentations and lessons about the local customs or
wildlife, while enjoying cocktails and appetizers. Dinner is served
in the al fresco, but covered dining area with warm golden lighting
and perhaps a bush baby or two peeking from the rafters overhead.
If desired, the lodges will prepare “bush dinners,” beautiful,
magical events in secluded areas under an incredibly thick canopy
of stars. Most retire early to their tents to rest up for the early
wakeup calls, which, by the way, are the nicest you’ll ever have. A
gentle voice outside the tent with a “Good morning?” Upon unzipping
your tent, there will be a tray waiting with a Thermos of tea,
coffee or cocoa and some warm cookies to tide you over until the
post-game ride breakfast.
The meals are surprisingly excellent considering the remoteness
of the lodges. Chefs prepare lavish breakfast and lunch buffets,
while dinners are ordered from the menus. I was especially
impressed with the quality of the fruit and salads fresh and
delicious, and with the extensive selection. The fruit was even
more succulent and varied at the beach resort. In fact, just as I
was about to dig into the juicy mango on my plate one morning, a
monkey leapt onto my table, grabbed the mango and sprang away in
one fell swoop. The employees were frantic but we tourists just
laughed. After all, we did come to Kenya to see animals, didn’t we?
Hakuna Matata, I said. Yes, that really does mean “no
worries” in Swahili. Just another of the infinite charms of
Kenya.
| CONTACT Africa Adventure Consultants
866-778-1089
www.adventuresinafrica.com Kent Redding, president, was named a Top Travel Specialist in
the United States last year by Conde Nast Traveler, and is a Kenya
Authorized Travel Specialist. He specializes in high-quality,
environmentally and culturally-friendly safaris at competitive
prices, including honeymoons, families, groups, luxury and
more. Heritage Hotels
www.heritage-eastafrica.com The Adventurers’ and Young Rangers’ Clubs, designed to educate
and entertain youngsters while on safaris with their families, are
included in the cost of the stay. Children will engage with local
African youngsters of their own ages, learning regional games,
dancing, costumes and more. Other activities might include tracking
and identifying animals, insects and butterflies, assisting in
dividing up livestock, African storytelling and visits to a local
village. Family tents are provided upon request, and when planning
family safaris, trips are fly-in and designed to minimize travel
times. |
