On Valentine’s Day, a rendition of Gene Wilder’s “Pure Imagination” pulled me out of a deep, dream-filled slumber. As the final chorus faded, it was replaced by a female voice — Rosie, the expedition leader onboard Aurora Expeditions’ 132-passenger Sylvia Earle ship, broadcasting our 6 a.m. wake-up call over the ship’s PA system.
“Good morning, explorers,” she said. “It’s February 14, and we’re in love with Antarctica.”
Rubbing the sleep out of my eyes, I pulled open my cabin’s curtains to reveal a blanket of white. An iceberg bid me good morning, and a colony of penguins porpoised off in the distance.
This particular Valentine’s Day marked my first “date” with the White Continent during Aurora’s sail-in, fly-out Antarctic Explorer Express itinerary, a new-for-2024 shortened version of the line’s 13-day iteration. The weeklong “Express” option appealed to me for the variety of boxes it checked: In addition to exploring the Antarctic Peninsula, we were scheduled to set foot on the mainland, explore several island chains and hike Deception Island (a caldera in an active volcano that was formerly used as a whaling station).
The sail-in, fly-out option also traverses the infamous Drake Passage for two days on the front-end of the journey, but gives passengers some relief with a flight back to Chile. (The Drake Passage has some of the roughest seas in the world, but is considered a rite of passage for those intrepid enough to venture to the world’s most southern point.)
Aurora Expeditions — created by Australian explorer Greg Mortimer 32 years ago — focuses heavily on educational, active exploration; guests have multiple excursion options per day (weather-permitting), which may include a combination of naturalist-led citizen science projects, guided Zodiac tours geared toward photography or wildlife-spotting, or hikes and walks on land. Sea kayaking, “paddling” (with inflatable kayaks) and snorkeling programs are also available for an added cost.
Sea kayaking, paddling, snorkeling, hiking, zodiac tours and more are available to expedition passengers.
Credit: 2024 Aurora ExpeditionsWhat to Expect During the Expedition
From the seat of my inflatable double kayak, I often viewed Antarctica from a unique vantage point, eye-level with a curious fur seal or a colony of Chinstrap penguins, floating through fields of sea ice or bobbing just a few dozen feet from the fluke of a Humpback whale. Once back onboard each evening, I swapped notes and sightings with my fellow explorers, all of whom are bonded together by their love of adventure and their choice to trade in the creature comforts of home for the extreme and the thrilling. (Speaking of — Aurora provides the opportunity to take part in the "Polar Plunge,” where passengers jump from a platform at the back of the ship into the 28-degree Antarctic Ocean. Extreme? Yes. Thrilling? It depends on who you ask.)
But that’s not to say that Sylvia Earle doesn’t keep creature comforts in mind. The carbon-neutral expedition ship — equipped with an X-shaped bow to stabilize the vessel in rough waters — was christened in 2023 as the sister ship to the line’s first vessel, the Greg Mortimer.
For me, it represented a luxurious home base to return to after a day of exploring. Each of Sylvia Earle’s public decks are named after one of six female conservationists (and its fleet of Zodiacs bears the names of female explorers, as well). Its 71 cabins span eight categories; my Deck 4 Balcony Stateroom was spacious, with two twin-size beds (king-size options are also available), a sitting area with a sofa, a coffee table and a desk, a large exterior balcony and plenty of storage space and hooks for cold-weather clothing.
But the true piece de resistance? Heated floors in the bathroom, which helped to dry wet gloves, scarves and hats.
My time onboard was spent either in the ship’s lecture hall — a cappuccino in hand — for daily recaps and science lectures, or in the mudroom, where we exited the ship via Zodiac during excursions. However, my favorite spot to lounge was the Deck 6 library, which overlooks the ship’s bow and is stocked with books on exploration, history, science and travel.
There’s also a sauna and a fitness center that guests can use with an advance reservation; two outdoor Jacuzzis; the Observation Deck; two bars (alcoholic drinks are an added cost); and the complimentary, reservation-only Rockhopper, Sylvia Earle’s steakhouse. The variety of fare offered at both dining venues was impressive, and the staff was attentive and accommodating to guests with dietary restrictions.
By the end of my short-but-sweet voyage, I reflected on a week well-spent in one of the most awe-inspiring and extreme environments on the planet. My own honey was thousands of miles away back at home, but it turned out that Rosie was right: I had fallen deeply in love with Antarctica.
Note: Aurora Expeditions’ Antarctic Explorer Express itinerary will be offered for booking in the line’s 2025-2026 season.
Expect the Unexpected: Why Travel Insurance Is a Must When Visiting Antarctica
Aurora Expeditions requires that guests purchase and submit proof of a travel insurance plan that covers emergency evacuation before embarking on their cruise. During our voyage, I learned firsthand why it is absolutely critical to have a policy that also covers travel delays. Because the Antarctic Explorer Express itinerary includes a fly-out departure, we were at the mercy of Antarctica’s unpredictable weather patterns; unless pilots have perfect visibility and clear conditions, planes will not arrive or depart from the gravel airstrip on King George Island. And, as luck would have it, our flight was delayed 36 hours, causing many guests (including me) to miss onward connections back home.
However, with the OneTrip Premier policy from Allianz Travel Insurance — which included coverage for travel delays, trip interruption, up to to $75,000 in emergency medical benefits and up to $1 million in emergency transportation benefits for trips up to 366 days — I was able to easily file a claim online once I returned home.
The possibility of a flight delay, should clients choose a fly-in or fly-out option, is stated in Aurora Expeditions’ passenger contract. In addition to purchasing a travel insurance policy, travel advisors should recommend that clients read it carefully and encourage them to book onward connections with a buffer period.
