After sailing on more than 200 cruises, it takes quite a lot to surprise me on a ship — but Ponant’s 2021-launched Le Commandant Charcot managed just that.
The luxury vessel is perhaps the most unique cruise ship on the market because it is a genuine icebreaker. For one thing, it’s the only PC2 polar class passenger ship in the world (the lower the number, the stronger the hull). For comparison, most expedition ships that travel to the poles have a rating of PC6, and are more suited to the less-dense ice conditions often found in summer or autumn, rather than the tougher ice of winter. And I witnessed its capabilities firsthand on a sailing in Canada — not in the usual summer or fall seasons, but in the heart of winter on the St. Lawrence River.
I felt colder here than I did in Antarctica, but I was rewarded with my first-ever viewing of the northern lights, as well as many more exciting experiences on the line’s included shore excursions.
After embarking in Quebec City, we encountered ice floes on par with those found in Alaska’s Glacier Bay, but were able to glide over colossal chunks with zero vibration. Even when navigating miles of thicker pack ice to enter La Baie, Quebec, it would have been easy to think the ship was in calm, open seas.
The ship’s Blue Lagoon area has a heated pool.
Credit: 2025 Jason LeppertWhen we got closer to the seasonal cruise pier, the ship stopped to drop its gangplank directly on the ice. There, snowmobiles pulling four-person sleds “tendered” us the rest of the way into town, or to shacks to try our hand at ice fishing.
When we departed La Baie, Le Commandant Charcot had to reverse out of the ice. The propellers at the stern churned through the pack ice as easily as a blender whips up a smoothie.
Similarly, at Gaspe (also in Quebec), the pier we docked at was so solidly ice locked that the vessel had to muscle its way forward and back to break up the ice and securely moor. The structural and mechanic prowess of this ship cannot be overstated.
Life Onboard
As impressive as the ship’s hardware is, the Ponant lifestyle was another pleasant surprise.
My Prestige Stateroom (actually a 50% oversize accessible room) was a lovely private retreat with comfortable bedding opposite a built-in banquette, a dining table and chairs, a vanity desk, a bank of drawers and a closet.
The bathroom was super spacious around the toilet and shower for wheelchair access. (Other cabins in this category feature a toilet compartment that’s separated from another with a sink and a shower.) And my expansive balcony was a perfect place from which to gauge each day’s weather.
Larger, accessible staterooms are available onboard.
Credit: 2025 Jason LeppertBesides the excellent around-the-clock room service, all other meals and most alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages are also included in the fare (except some cocktails and top-shelf liquors). Nuna, the full-service main dining room, and Sila, the self-service buffet, offer breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The Inneq pool grill serves additional bites throughout the afternoon.
The food across the board was some of the best I’ve ever had at sea. Menus skew predominantly French (as the line is French-flagged and French language first, followed by English) with added international flavors. I was in heaven enjoying everything from exceptionally delicious Maison Bordier butter and cheeses to perfectly al dente pastas, juicy burgers, succulent lobster tails and even sweetbreads.
The ship’s crew members were also some of the friendliest I’ve ever encountered, and their service was equally attentive.
Adding to the list of surprises on the 245-guest Le Commandant Charcot was its entertainment. Most expedition cruises on competing ships of this size don’t go far beyond hiring a few musicians. But I was blown away by its near-full-scale productions, in addition to smaller sets around the ship, which is a rarity on similar vessels.
The Observatory Lounge features wraparound windows.
Credit: 2025 Jason LeppertExtra pampering came in the form of a spa complete with an indoor pool and an attached detox juice bar, a dry sauna and a snow room, plus paid treatment rooms, where I received a very relaxing massage.
The ship’s indoor Observatory Lounge features scenic windows wrapping its sides and stretching over the ceiling above. Or there’s the outdoor Blue Lagoon — a sublime heated pool to wade in as snowy conditions pass by. A central, vaulted atrium is dotted with glass-enclosed elevators that carry guests down to a welcoming lobby, a retail shop, a photo/video studio, the main lounge and a cigar lounge.
A pair of especially luxurious, leather-clad expedition rooms round out the venues, offering a comfortable place for donning complimentary parkas and cruise-use waterproof boots, as needed.
Le Commandant Charcot is now one of my all-time favorite cruise ships, and I cannot wait to get back onboard.
