When I was biking in Spain along the Senda del Oso — Spanish for “Trail of the Bear” — I thought it was just a cute name for a casual path through a scenic valley. I didn’t realize that on this trail I would encounter an actual bear — the Cantabrian brown bear — namesake of the greenway.
Spanish bears? While this indigenous animal was out of harm’s way — in an open-air sanctuary along the bike path — it was yet another example reminding me that I was not in the Spain many people may be familiar with.
Here in Asturias, one of the 17 autonomous communities that comprise the Kingdom of Spain, there is no neo-Gothic-inspired architecture by Antoni Gaudi, no flamenco shows, nor any running of the bulls. Asturias prides itself on the beauty of its wilderness, so much so that the tourism bureau deems it “paraiso natural,” or natural paradise.
The writer went biking on Asturias' Senda del Oro trail.
Credit: 2022 Erik TrinidadThis natural paradise lies on Spain’s north coast, between Galicia and Cantabria, encompassing dramatic mountain ranges, awe-inspiring rocky coastlines and all the towns and green pastures in between. Travelers walking the original route of the famed Camino de Santiago may merely pass through this province on their way to Santiago de Compostela, but as I discovered, dedicating some time here will truly immerse anyone in a slice of “Green Spain.”
Visit the Mountains
Asturias is home of Spain’s first national park, now known as Picos de Europa National Park, named for the “Peaks of Europe,” one of the continent’s premier mountain ranges for trekking, world-class rock climbing or just admiring the postcard views in and around the elevated glacial Lakes of Covadonga (namesake of the park’s original name).
Hiking in Pico de Europa National Park
Credit: 2022 Erik TrinidadThe park is one of seven UNESCO-listed biosphere reserves across Asturias, which include the remarkable Somiedo Natural Park and Ponga Natural Park.
In addition to the dozens of hiking trails in these mountainous highlands, there are horseback rides, canyoning excursions and eco-historical tours of the rural mountain houses that have persisted since Asturias’ Celtic past.
Clients can go horseback riding in Somiedo Natural Park, one of seven UNESCO-listed biosphere reserves in the area.
Credit: 2022 Erik Trinidad
For active travelers who want to climb these mountains, there’s an entry-level, yet challenging via ferrata course ascending a 623-ft. rockface at Vidosa Multiaventura, just outside Ponga Natural Park, with cables and ladders already installed on the crag. For those who’d rather go downward, Pozo Soton, an active coal mine in San Martin del Rey Aurelio, offers tours inside its subterranean tunnel network.
Also, bear-tracking tours are, in fact, an available excursion — May through October is best —and can be organized with outfitter Pro Natura.
Adventurous travelers can opt to climb the via ferrata near Pongo National Park.
Credit: 2022 Erik Trinidad
Asturias by the Seashore
In the warmer months, locals gravitate to the shores of the Cantabrian Sea for sun, sand and surf. Much of the Asturian coastline is made of limestone rock formations, but among them are beautiful beaches, from Playa Ribeirona in Cadavedo, to Playa de Salinas, a surfing destination with several surf schools, in Castrillon.
To visit the dramatic coastline up close, the Paseo de San Pedro in the charming port town of Llanes is one manicured pathway for casual strolls atop the cliffs, with prime vantage points to the ocean waves spouting up when colliding into rocks. However, I opted to see the cliffs from out at sea with outfitter Rana Sella, which offers kayaking tours in and around the coast’s towering cliffs and cavernous cenotes. (They also offer kayaking tours of the Rio Sella, the location of an international canoe race each August.)
Several little port towns also grace the shoreline, and are pleasant stomping grounds to stroll through, people watch or relax at a cafe. Llastres is one such fishing village where getting lost within its alleys of stone walls and red roofs is part of the appeal. Cudillero, with its winding main road of colorfully painted houses ascending up a hill, is worthy of more than a few snapshots.
Cudillero, a port town, features colorfully painted homes.
Credit: 2022 Erik TrinidadFood in Asturias: Cheese, Seafood and Fabada
It’s practically blasphemy to travel anywhere in Spain and not experience its gastronomy. With a landscape of mountains and sea, it should not be a surprise that meat and seafood grace the Asturian table.
Local fishermen provide fresh fish, squid and the mollusks I encountered almost everywhere: "zamburinas" (baked scallops, with their roe sacks, on the half shell). The efforts of local shepherds and cattle farmers are reflected on the Asturian plate as well, with roasted lamb, "cachopo" (a sort of Asturian chicken fried steak), and "callos," the region’s take on tripe stew — a specialty of the house at acclaimed Bar Camacho.
Asturias’ iconic cheese, queso de Cabrales, is a sharp, funky blue cheese that an award-winning cheesemaker, Casera Main (in the mountain town of Sotres), ages for months in natural caves. Tours and tastings are available.
Spanish-American celebrity chef Jose Andres may hail from Asturias, but it’s fabada —Asturias’ most famous dish — that takes the spotlight, especially at Michelin-starred Casa Gerardo in Prendes. White “fabes” beans are accompanied by “morcilla” (blood sausage), ham and chorizo, and are stewed to smoky, savory perfection. However, despite the admiration for all these dishes, I noticed that the most distinctly Asturian part of a local meal isn’t on a plate but in a glass: Asturian cider.
Cider House Rules
Unlike the Basque technique of pouring and aerating cider from a stream spouting right from the barrel, Asturians pour sidra Asturiana in a long stream from a 23-ounce bottle held above their heads, and caught in a glass below the waist. This process is known as “escanciado,” and I’d seen it performed daily at most restaurants, particularly at sidrerias, across the region.
This traditional pouring technique looks simple enough, but any novice (like myself) will discover that it’s easier said than done. I learned (the hard way) that over-tilting a bottle when initiating the pour will only cause the trajectory of the stream to arch forward, resulting in my own embarrassment — and worse, wasted cider on the floor. It wasn’t until I was on a comprehensive tour of one cider mill, Casa Trabanco, that I redeemed myself by learning how to pour it with minimal spillage, from a local guide.
Where to Stay in Asturias
Casa Trabanco is located in Gijon, one of just three main cities in Asturias — along with Aviles and Oviedo — each of which not only have their own energies, restaurants and nightlife, but plenty of accommodations to base clients for exploration.
Basing myself from Gijon’s hotel, I strolled through the historic district of this port town — where Celtics built over Roman ruins — to the sunset view at La Bateria Alta de Santa Catalina.
Aviles, home of the grand Palicio de Aviles hotel, is where I marveled at the postmodern architecture of the Centro Niemeyer cultural center, which stands boldly among old historic buildings and Romanesque churches.
In Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, I made my way from the Barcelo Oviedo Cervantes hotel, beyond the bustling food market and alleys of souvenir stores, to the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of the Holy Savior. It’s here where dozens of pilgrims begin the Camino Primitivo, the original route of the Camino de Santiago.
The Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of the Holy Savior in Oviedo
Credit: 2022 Erik TrinidadWhile all three Asturian cities are definitely worthy of exploration, the main draw of Asturias is, above all, its nature. That said, a perfect middle ground to base yourself for a few days is the town of Cangas de Onis, which blends a small-city vibe with natural surroundings. Here, the Parador Hotels and Resorts has a grand hotel, converted from the former San Pedro de Villanueva Monastery, which has been meticulously preserved to retain its original Romanesque past.
Today, Cangas de Onis is located equidistantly about half an hour from both coastal excursions and mountain adventures, making it a great hub to explore and enjoy the unique “paraiso natural” that is Asturias.
