Was it an affront, a bird-brained disrespect of art? There, atop a 52-foot sculpture of car parts, pianos, computer monitors and bits of deconstructed Russian Mig-21 aircraft at Vostell-Malpartida Museum sat an enormous circle of twigs, its lanky occupant indifferent to the chatter of perplexed art lovers below.
We were told not to worry, and that avant-garde artist Wolf Vostell would have welcomed the stork’s addition to his sculpture. In fact, his intention in 1976 — when he set his museum in an 18th-century wool-washing house in the undulating landscape of Los Barruecos Natural Monument outside Caceres, Spain — was to merge his dual passions of art and nature.
Clients can expect avant-garde art inside the Vostell-Malpartida Museum.
Credit: Christine Loomis
Those elements still draw visitors to stroll through rooms of provocative artwork and across a landscape of hills, ponds and behemoth boulders that look like they might have been carelessly tossed by giants into haphazard heaps — upon which storks promptly constructed nests. The museum mostly features Vostell’s thought-provoking pieces, as well as works by contemporaries in the rebellious Fluxus movement such as Yoko Ono.
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The museum and natural monument capture the compelling essence of Caceres, located about three hours southwest of Madrid, and the region of Extremadura, where art, history and nature (especially birds) take the spotlight amid the sublime absence of typical tourist crowds. Although Extremadura and Caceres may be less well-known than Spain’s hotspots, the experience they offer travelers is as rich and satisfying as any in the country.
What to Expect in Old Town Caceres
The Old Town of Caceres (the “ce” is pronounced like the “th” in “thin”) is a UNESCO World Heritage City thanks to its walled historic center and melange of Roman, Islamic, Northern Gothic and Italian Renaissance architecture. Considered one of the best-preserved old quarters in Europe, the Old Town invites wandering past ancient walls draped in creeping vines and exploring hidden medieval alleys, towers and steeples topped with stork nests or guarded by swooping Spanish kestrels. Within its 22 hilltop acres of plazas and narrow cobbled streets are centuries of history as well as some modern-day surprises such as Atrio, a three-Michelin-star restaurant the guidebook calls a “temple of Spanish gastronomy.”
After wandering solo, I joined the exemplary Marco Mangut Rodriguez from Extremadura Turismo for a guided tour of Old Town to learn what I missed on my own. One tour highlight: the mysterious, never-seen cookie-baking nuns at Convent of St. Paul (Poor Clare Nuns), where knowing visitors enter a side door and set coins on a “secret” turntable. When the table spins back around, a box of delicious cookies appears. We visited the statue of patron saint San Pedro de Alcantara in the pretty Plaza de Santa Maria, his bronze toes rubbed to a gleaming shine by the devoted (or seekers of luck).
The Arco de la Estrella in Caceres dates back to the 14th century.
Credit: Christine LoomisOld Town is also famous for its appearance in season seven of hit drama “Game of Thrones.” Film sites include Caceres Museum, which interprets the city’s history from its Roman founding in 25 B.C., and Arco de la Estrella, the main entrance to the historic center of Caceres and the fictional gate to King’s Landing. The epic battle between Daenerys Targaryen and Jamie Lannister was set in Los Barruecos, where interpretive signs describe the battle and its filming. (Spoiler: No actual fire-breathing dragons were involved.)
Visitors can get a stork’s view of the city by climbing the Tower of Bujaco or Tower of the Pulpits, which overlook the city’s main square, Plaza Mayor, just beyond the walls. The 18th-century baroque Church of San Francisco Javier also has two towers.
My favorite stop was a contemplative break in the garden of Palace of Carvajal on Calle Amargura. The lush, sunny garden is an oasis of green within 16th-century walls; its centerpiece is a gnarled fig tree that’s hundreds of years old.
Dining and Lodging in Caceres, Plus Day Trips
Caceres easily satisfies food lovers. Inside the walls, Torre de Sande Eatery, sister restaurant to the aforementioned Atrio, is one choice in an evocative setting. Outside the walls, cafes, bakeries and pubs line Plaza Mayor and the surrounding streets. Tapas, fabulous cheeses and Spanish wines are plentiful, along with Extremadura’s heralded dish: Iberico ham from pigs that feast on sweet acorns.
Even lodging here is an invitation to embrace history. NH Collection Caceres Palacio de Oquendo, a converted 16th-century palace, is a warren of abruptly ending hallways, stairs that inexplicably don’t reach the lobby and a few windowless guestrooms. Yet, the hotel exudes character, offers a pleasant restaurant and bar, and provides easy access to Old Town, dining and shopping. Parador de Caceres is another charming option.
Visitors can (and should) round out a stay in Caceres with day trips to Merida, Plasencia, Monfrague National Park or the gorgeous Monastery of San Jeronimo de Yuste, all gems of the region.
