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Wibke CarterContributing Writer

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An Insider's Travel Guide to Geneva, Switzerland

Jan 12, 2023
Culinary  Hotels and Resorts  Western Europe  
genevatravelitinerary
While Geneva is known for its political influence, the city offers new luxury hotels, lake cruises, plenty of chocolate and more.
Credit: 2023 Sergii Figurnyi /stock.adobe.com

Geneva, Switzerland, is mostly known as a business destination, as well as a hub for luxury watchmaking and jewelry — so it’s not often found on a first-timer's itinerary to Switzerland. But its reputation as a source of excellent cultural and culinary experiences is spreading. On a recent summer trip, I was pleasantly surprised by this vibrant city, ideally located in the center of Europe. 

While dotted with five-star luxury, stately mansions and glossy shops, Geneva maintains a small-town feel with narrow lanes and ancient buildings in the old part. The city’s landmark is the Jet d'Eau, a must-see water feature since 1891.

Geneva can easily be explored on foot during a long weekend, and there are plenty of reasons why it should be on the itinerary of every visitor to Switzerland.

Where to Stay in Geneva

Clients arriving at the central train station have only a two-minute walk to Hotel Cornavin. Designed for business travelers and visitors, the property is located close to the shopping district and all main sights. I enjoyed starting the day with breakfast on the top floor, complete with panoramic views.

genevatravelguide
The Woodward (center), an Oetker Collection hotel, recently opened.
Credit: 2023 The Woodward

If clients want something splashy, newly opened The Woodward fits the bill. Located in a 1901-built building on Quai Wilson, it offers magnificent views over Lake Geneva and the Jet d’Eau. The city’s smallest five-star hotel with just 26 suites, The Woodward also features two restaurants and an extensive Guerlain Spa.

Also worth considering is Hotel Bristol in the heart of the city at Square du Mont-Blanc. After an award-winning renovation by French decorator Annie Zeau, the lobby, reception, restaurant and bar now function as a single, bright space, bringing the hotel into the modern era while maintaining an old family-hotel spirit.

Things to Do in Geneva

Switzerland is famous for its chocolate, and Geneva lives up to that standing. With the new Choco Pass, clients with a sweet tooth can drop into chocolatiers across the city and sample handmade chocolates at their leisure.

If travelers still have room left, the 3.5-hour-long Chocolate Flavours Tour will reveal the origins of chocolate, seduce the palate with six tastings, and take clients to the city’s most famous sights, such as Place du Bourg-de-Four and St. Peter’s Cathedral.

genevawhattodo
Visit the United Nations, which is located in Geneva.
Credit: 2023 eqroy/stock.adobe.com

No trip to Geneva is complete without experiencing the lake. During a one-hour cruise with CGN, visitors can experience unparalleled views of the Jet d'Eau, Mont Blanc, monuments, famous villas, the United Nations and the parks and gardens bordering the shore.

Note: Consider a Geneva City Pass for clients. Valid for one, two or three days, it offers discounts of up to 50% on tourist attractions, as well as free public transport (including the ride to and from the airport).

Top Geneva Restaurants

Swiss food is quite hearty, and dairy products find their way into most dishes here. Cheese fondue — a pot of melted cheese in which to dip cubes of bread or potatoes — is widely served, as is rosti, grated potatoes topped with cheese, ham or a fried egg.

Les Armures is a great choice for traditional fare. The oldest cafe in Geneva, it’s tucked between the former arsenal and the 12th-century Tavel House. I recommend filets de perches (fish filets from Lake Geneva) or traditional grilled Swiss sausage while dining alfresco.

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For a relaxed atmosphere with lake views, send clients to La Potiniere, an outdoor cafe and bar serving brunch, cocktails and bar food. It’s located right next to Jardin Anglais, a popular park.

Locals mingle under leafy trees at Les Kiosque des Bastions, where the seasonal menu is suitable for both omnivores and vegetarians, with dishes such as slow-braised pork and burrata salad.

Finally, foodies will find a kind of New York meatpacking district vibe in the heart of Geneva at Chez Philippe. Headed by renowned chef Philippe Chevrier, this is an excellent spot for meat lovers. 

When to Go to Geneva

The best time to visit Geneva is during summer, when the weather is mild and breezy. Though the city gets crowded, clients can enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking at Mont Saleve, enjoying watersports on the lake and sunbathing at the Paquis Baths. 

December to April, meanwhile, are prime times for skiing in the nearby Swiss Alps. Avid ice skaters can practice their spins at the pop-up ice rink in Parc des Bastions.

History buffs should visit during Geneva’s Fete de l'Escalade (The Climbing Festival) on Dec.12 or the closest weekend. The celebration commemorates the failed attack by the troops of the Duke of Savoy in 1602. Halberdiers, horsemen and historical characters parade through the streets in medieval costumes while chocolate cauldrons play a delicious role. 

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