We had been in Monterey, Calif., for all of 24 hours, and at least three people had apologized for the weather.
“You’re getting gray skies, unfortunately,” said one restaurant proprietor. “It’s not often like this.”
My reply to all of them was the same — when you are traveling from Southern California, a moody beach and a bit of mist is a welcome change of pace. We bundled up with two kids and city-hopped for days. Here are some ideas to jump-start a family adventure in and around Monterey.
What to Do: Family Activites
Pandemic or not, opting for a day outside is the best way to experience Monterey. The rocky shores are hugged by scenic bike and pedestrian paths, and wildflowers, shore birds, seals and sea lions are regular sightings.
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As soon as we dropped our bags at our hotel, we checked out a surrey from Adventures by the Sea, an outfitter with multiple rental shops on and near Cannery Row. A surrey is always a good (and comical) time, though grown-ups will surely get more of a workout than kids. We pedaled only about 2 miles north on the recreation trail before stopping to shell hunt on the quiet beach at Lover’s Point. To cover more ground, groups can rent bikes or book a guided bike tour with Adventures by the Sea.
Getting out onto the bay itself is a must-do while here, and groups can explore the water in whatever way suits a child’s age or interest. Savvy swimmers and teens might stand-up paddleboard or kayak. Whale-watching tours are suitable for all ages. Kids above 3 years old can go animal spotting, and the best way to do that is with Elkhorn Slough Safari.
Carmel-by-the-Sea has many quaint local shops.
Credit: 2021 Visit CarmelThe Elkhorn Slough (pronounced “sloo”) is a treasured waterway for researchers and guests. Elkhorn Slough Safari brings enthusiasts into the reserve for a close-up look at its inhabitants. We saw more than a dozen sea otters on our 90-minute pontoon ride, and many of the otters had a pup on their belly. An onboard naturalist identified bird and seal species and explained behaviors. We learned that otter pups will spend about six months nursing with their mother, for example, and that they will float on the surface of the water as their mother dives for snacks. One pup even made an audible squeal when his mother had been gone for too long. We practically applauded when she popped back up to the surface.
For more open-ended play time, try out a couple of local beaches. We took a brief drive to stroll the adorable town of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Other easily accessible spots that are good for kids can be found at Fort Ord Dunes State Park and Point Lobos State Natural Reserve.
Where to Stay: Family-Friendly Monterey Hotels
Our family loved Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa, perched above the shoreline and steps from the Monterey Pedestrian Path. The property’s plaza overlooks the bay and has its own coffee shop, Tidal Coffee. And suite options here are ideal for families. We had ample room in the Cannery Row suite, where our eldest daughter had her own king bed, and a separate king room allowed for easy naps for our 1-year-old.
The Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa overlooks the Pacific Ocean.
Credit: 2021 Cannery Row CompanyMonterey Plaza’s central location made sightseeing seamless. One afternoon while the baby slept, I walked away from the hotel and along one of the main streets. Within 15 minutes I was in Pacific Grove, shopping for vintage dishware and having a latte. Another day, we drove 15 minutes for our Carmel-by-the-Sea adventures.
For a decidedly different view of Monterey County, there’s Carmel Valley Ranch, a sprawling property in a lush valley full of oak trees and vineyards. The family pool area is a comprehensive hub — think playground, hot tubs, a splash pad, bocce ball courts, fire pits and more. Plus, the ranch’s list of classes includes archery or guided stargazing for teens; falconry for kids 8 years old and up; and a bee experience for those at least 6 years old.
What to Eat: Dining for All Ages
As a coastal town, Monterey has seafood down. A bread bowl brimming with clam chowder can be found at most stalls on the wharf. (I can never pass this up.) Meals at Monterey Plaza’s restaurant, Schooners, are set to a soundtrack of the waves washing below the deck. And we loved our meal from the kitschy, tiki-inspired Hula’s Island Grill — the Hawaiian fish soup is a great take on Thai tom kha (spicy coconut soup).
Our favorite breakfast was in Carmel-by-the-Sea, at Village Corner Bistro. Open since 1948, the cafe is legendary, and the locals were out at 8:30 a.m., catching up over coffee and eggs. Be sure to tell your clients not to skip the fresh-from-the-oven mini croissants with house-made jam. And after their meal, suggest a stroll down the sloped streets to admire the town’s cottages on the way to the beach.
Even if the skies are gray, your clients will likely find it hard to say goodbye.
The Aquarium Is Back
After a long hiatus during the COVID-19 pandemic, the world-famous Monterey Bay Aquarium reopened on May 15. Book tickets well in advance to see the jellies, sea otters, penguins and sharks that help make this aquarium so loved.
The Details
Adventures by the Sea
Carmel Valley Ranch
Elkhorn Slough Safari
Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa