It was hard for me to imagine a Wes Anderson-inspired beach bure. A modest, straw-topped Fijian bungalow just didn’t seem consistent with the film director’s fondness for grand, urban spaces, such as the stately pink alpine resort in The Grand Budapest Hotel or the Manhattan brownstone in The Royal Tenenbaums.
But my friend insisted that our lodging for the night — Grand Pacific Hotel — was straight out of an Anderson film. And, indeed, once we pulled up to the property, I was hit by visions of quirky protagonists and decadent lifestyles. Not unlike Anderson’s star settings, Grand Pacific is a vision of architectural greatness substantial enough to withstand its human history.
The property’s lobby is located in the original hotel building.
Credit: 2018 Grand Pacific Hotel
Just a few past its centenary, the colonial property wows with its all-white neoclassical facade, wrought-iron fencing, Romanesque columns, arched doorways and open-air galleries. Featured on the Fijian $10 note, it’s clearly a national treasure.
But, like any good story, a bout of crisis tested the property’s mettle. In the late 1980s, Grand Pacific was neglected and fell into disrepair, officially closing its doors in 1992. Its fate in jeopardy, it sat in near ruins until 2011 when three regional organizations collaborated to resuscitate the property. Majorly renovated and extended, it reopened in 2014.
A beach bungalow it is not — which makes sense, since Suva doesn’t have a beach. Instead, Suva has lured political dignitaries, businesspeople and royalty with its position as the capital of Fiji (since 1884) and the largest city in the South Pacific, home to half of Fiji’s population. A so-called tropical metropolis, Suva is the seat of the country’s government, a hub for colleges and the site of a busy harbor. The latter inspired the planning for the property back in 1908, when the Union Steamship Company of New Zealand decided it was necessary to create lodging on par with the status of its passengers.
Though Suva does not have a beach, the property does enjoy views of Suva Harbor.
Credit: 2018 Grand Pacific HotelGrand Pacific offers an elevated experience of the past, encased in warmth and the shade of palm trees. The lobby showcases mementos, such as a 1939 menu served to the guests of the R.M.S. Franconia, featuring delicacies such as iced coconut milk, fresh turtle consomme, assorted shellfish and turkey curry. There are also yellowing photos of past guests, such as Queen Elizabeth II, who visited twice — once for a grand ball in 1953, and again for a state dinner in 1973.
On her first visit, the queen was photographed waving to adoring fans from the property’s biggest balcony, which is now part of the romantic Queen Elizabeth Suite that overlooks historic Albert Park. Even grander is Royal Suite 1, which features a separate dining area and a French door-framed veranda with views of Suva Harbor and the surrounding mountains.
There are only 10 rooms offered in the original building, but the property also offers two newbuild wings complete with a gym, a spa and 103 guestrooms. For those who enjoy the sound of crashing waves, consider the Grand Pacific Premier and even larger Grand Pacific Club rooms, which are located closest to the ocean.
Harbor views can also be enjoyed by the pool and its surrounding outdoor patio and bar, which serves dishes from full-service Levuka restaurant.
There are several eateries at Grand Pacific Hotel, including al fresco dining by the pool.
Credit: 2018 Grand Pacific HotelIf motivated by the stories of days gone by, enjoy a formal dinner at Prince Albert restaurant where fresh ingredients, attentive service and masterful technique result in modern takes of local classics.
Influenced by the past but calibrated for the present, it’s a dressed-up Fijian experience — just like Grand Pacific Hotel itself.
The Details
Grand Pacific Hotel
www.grandpacifichotel.com.fj
