A rider on horseback cresting a lofty sand dune within Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve in Southern Colorado isn’t something one expects to see when exploring the park. Mostly, visitors go there to hike, gape at the pyramids of sand and possibly surf the dunes. (The tallest dune reaches upwards of 800 feet.)
Though on any given day, the nimble-footed horses of Zapata Ranch, located a few miles down the road, can be seen winding their way along park trails, gully washes and up and over the arid expanse of sandy monoliths onto mountain paths beyond.
Ride Zapata’s horses on nearby sand dunes.
Credit: 2021 Chris Burkhard
The vision seems more like a scene from a Western movie. Sitting tall in the saddle — crisscrossing gnarly terrain backed by high mountains forested with pinion and pine trees — it’s cinematic, and in the style of the movies “Hidalgo” and “Open Range.” Cue: Kevin Costner and Viggo Mortenson. But, what’s even better than watching the spectacle? A chance to hop on the horse and do it yourself.
Zapata Ranch — owned by the Nature Conservancy and managed by Ranchlands — makes that dream come true for guests. For me, that happened several years ago. Horseback riding in Great Sand Dunes National Park remains one of my cherished travel memories.
Over the past few years, the ranch has expanded its range of programs. Guests can expect unique workshops in 2022, in addition to excellent horseman¬ship and nature programs while experiencing life on a working cattle and bison ranch.
The on-site lodge dates to the 1800s and offers 17 guestrooms.
Credit: 2021 @RanchlandsAccording to Kate Matheson, ranch manager, marketing and guest operations for Ranchlands, next year’s highlights include painting workshops and a writing workshop with Western author Pam Houston; natural dyeing with designer Edie Ure; photography, wildlife and bird migration exploration in the spring; plus new yoga workshops that will immerse guests in the surroundings and landscapes across the ranch.
“The workshops offer a special way to delve into life on the ranch, each offering different ways to connect with nature, animals and Western culture, depending on what you are interested in,” Matheson said.
Encore for Harvest Weekend
As a food and garden enthusiast, I was lured to the ranch for a second time this past September to savor Harvest Weekend, which will be returning next fall. This was a first for the ranch to debut not only the foods and purveyors of the San Luis Valley, but also to feature the inaugural season of bounty from the on-site vegetable and herb garden.
With wine glasses in hand, we walked to the nearby garden tucked beside the wooden vintage ranch guest cabins. Staff enlightened the guests on the hardships of cultivating edibles in an arid, high-elevation (7,950 feet) mountain valley embraced by the looming 10,000- to 14,000-foot peaks of the San Juan and Sangre de Cristo mountains.
The ranch partners with a local food hub in Mosca, Colo., that works with a consortium of 70 organic, no-till regenerative soil farms. Through the slats of the high fence that surround the garden to keep the wild critters out, I could see the jagged silhouette of the sand dunes with the massive mountains reaching upward behind them. The sunset hues of mauve, pink, red and orange painted the sky as we made our way to the expansive green lawn where a wooden long table, set with candles and vases of wildflowers, awaited.
Zapata Ranch is now offering Harvest Weekend as well as a range of workshops.
Credit: 2021 Madeline JordenOur group bonded over eight courses of locavore ranch cuisine. It felt good to dine outside in the fresh air, sampling unique flavors of the San Luis Valley. Highlights ranged from the baked house ricotta topped with a New Mexican chile and honey¬comb vinegar to the ranch-raised bison albondigas (meatballs) grilled over cottonwood and mesquite, topped with duck-fat-fried mint. We chatted and joked, but mostly I think it was the communal sounds of chatter that resonated; group conversation was the music I was missing from the past year.
As evening came to a close, and the stars blanketed the sky above us, dessert was served. Many exclaimed, “Oh, I’m too full,” but I didn’t see anyone push back their bowl of bizcochito (New Mexican cinnamon-anise sugar cookies) doughnuts served with honey and canela ice cream.
I was almost lulled to sleep as the entertainment, a Western singer, strummed her guitar and crooned, “Mammas, Don’t Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Cowboys.” I reflected, well, maybe they should. At least for a few days or a week at Zapata Ranch.
What to Know Before Booking Zapata Ranch
Located in Mosca, Colo., Zapata Ranch is bordered by Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the San Juan Mountains. It offers guided rides within its 103,000 acres, among its herd of 2,000 bison that roam the open range.
The ranch is owned by the Nature Conservancy and managed by Ranchlands. As a partnership model that emphasizes environmental conservation practices, Zapata Ranch is a unique presence in the San Luis Valley.
There’s a 17-bedroom lodge available for clients who are interested in exploring the ranch’s ecologically diverse meadows, wetlands, sand dunes and cottonwood groves and learning about ranching’s role in preserving these natural landscapes.
The Details
Zapata Ranch
