Review: Fairmont Banff Springs in Banff, Canada

Banff National Park, in the Canadian province of Alberta, is a kaleidoscope of jagged mountain peaks, roaming rivers, waterfalls and glacier-fed lakes.

On my first-ever visit to the park about seven years ago, I wanted to “see it all.” My husband and I trekked more than 15 miles in a weekend, and we fell into our luxuriously comfortable bed at Fairmont Banff Springs every evening.

It was a surprise anniversary trip — not easy to pull off after 10 years of marriage, nor given the fact that we’re both about as good at keeping secrets as a pair of three-year-olds — and the landscape was so alluring that we knew we’d return. And return we did this summer, with two kids (ages 11 and 4) in tow, and plans to explore at a dramatically slower pace. It was an opportunity to prove that this historic property suits any speed.

A Bit of Fairmont Banff Springs History

You can’t see Fairmont Banff Springs from its namesake town. Instead, you cross the Bow River (by foot or car) and wind around a few serpentine curves before it comes into view.

“It looks like Hogwarts,” my eldest daughter said.

Not wrong. Known as “The Castle in the Rockies,” the hotel is surrounded by fir trees and lodgepole pines and is imposing with its elaborate roofline and numerous turrets. It has been the jewel of the region since it first opened in 1888, after the trans-Canada railway system was complete, thereby making Banff’s beauty more accessible.

Mineral hot springs were discovered during the construction of the railway, hence the hotel’s name (and prime location). Today, many guests visit the public pools at Banff Upper Hot Springs. Over the years, the Banff Springs hotel has drawn guests of all sorts, including Queen Elizabeth and Marilyn Monroe (who famously took to the greens of the resort’s Stanley Thompson-designed golf course). The property’s name morphed to Fairmont Banff Springs in 2001, when Canadian Pacific Hotels (the hotel arm of the Canadian Pacific Railway) was renamed Fairmont Hotels and Resorts.

What to Expect Onsite at Fairmont Banff Springs

It’s fun to get lost in Fairmont Banff Springs, and relatively easy to do so, as well. The bottom two levels are indeed castle-like, with restaurants, bars, meeting rooms and more laid out along meandering hallways.

There’s an award-winning spa, armor on display here and there, patios and lounges with epic valley and mountain views, and even a tucked-away painting by William Cornelius Van Horne, who somehow managed to paint landscapes while helming the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway and then this hotel. Other historic details can be found in Heritage Hall, a sort of mini museum right above the lobby and concierge.

On my first visit, I was out and about hiking most days. But as a family of four, we took advantage of all there is to do onsite. The property’s twin pools provided fun for hours. One is a large indoor lap pool, with an adjacent and grotto-like hot tub, a bar (for fresh juices, snacks and cocktails) and lots of window-side lounge chairs. You can imagine guests loving this steamy space from fall to late spring, when it juxtaposes the snowy landscape and below-freezing temperatures outside. In mid-June, we could play in the outdoor pool, too, which is heated and had tons of communal floaties for the kids.

Another new-to-me part of the castle was the Adventure Center, which acts as a guest activity hub. There are boardgames and bicycles to check out, bookable seasonal tours (from forest bathing to wildlife viewing trips in summer) and near-daily complimentary offerings for guests. My kids attended arts and crafts hour one day. On another, my husband played 18 holes of golf while the girls and I joined staffer Isabelle for a guided wilderness walk. We learned about local flora as we went, and Isabelle had visual cue cards and a nature scavenger hunt to keep our youngest hiker engaged. We smelled wild juniper berries, tossed rocks into the Spray River and enjoyed the view of Bow Falls behind the hotel. Guests are kept abreast of the day’s offerings with a colorful and prominently displayed chalkboard in the main lobby.

Dining at Fairmont Banff Springs

The resort has 14 onsite food and beverage options, and even two stays isn’t enough to try them all. I visited an “old favorite,” Waldhaus Restaurant, this June, as well as a few spots I had missed last time. Clients who want incredible meals, and to never order from the same menu twice in one vacation, will find that a cinch at Fairmont Banff Springs.

Waldhaus is a classic, nestled at the bottom of an outdoor staircase and above the Bow River. The star of the Bavarian-inspired menu here is arguably the Alpine Cheese Fondue; the bubbling pot of gruyere, Emmenthal and appenzeller cheese is strong and savory, and dipping baguette chunks and market veggies brings a childlike energy to the table. There’s even chocolate fondue for dessert, so be sure clients save room, and/or arrive famished after a day of hiking or golf. 

The breakfast buffet at The Vermillion Room was fast and easy as a family (my youngest will eat muffins and bacon daily if you let her, and a buffet usually allows for that), but the 360 Experience in the Dining Dome trumped all of our most recent dining memories. An offering that debuted during the pandemic, the 360 Dome looks like a giant crystalline igloo, made cozy with home furnishings and space heaters. It’s a novelty to “eat outside” in this way. Our set breakfast included a generous bagel and smoked salmon board, eggs Benedict, vegan yogurt parfaits, homemade banana bread and more. If the weather cooperates, mountain views accompany the feast. But even on a socked-in or rainy day, this is a must-book experience for clients.

On one evening, we ditched the kids for cocktails at the stylish Rundle Bar and dinner at Castello Italiana. Here, mushroom arancini, shrimp aglio e olio and bison rigatoni paired fabulously with wine from Canada’s Okanagan Valley. An unexpected June snow fell outside as we ate, adding a touch of Canadian magic.

Accommodations at Fairmont Banff Springs

There are 739 guestrooms and suites here, and so many categories to consider. Our party of four enjoyed a Deluxe Mountain View Room on the 8th floor; true to the abode’s name, our view was unbeatable, showcasing Bow Falls, Rundle Mountain and the resort’s floatie-speckled outdoor pool below.

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Suites measure up to 1,500 square feet in size, and Fairmont Gold accommodations add another layer of luxury. Fairmont Gold guests have their own resort entrance, private check-in and access to two private exclusive lounges on the 5th floor. There are cocktails and canapes and endless mountain views from these spaces, too.

What to Do Nearby

Most people arrive in Banff with big plans to immerse themselves in nature. In the winter, that might mean skiing or snowshoeing, but in the warmer season, that usually means exploring around Lake Louise and Lake Moraine. About 40 minutes north of the hotel, these lakes are such popular sights that the national park has instituted a ticketed shuttle system; advance reservations are highly recommended, and the Fairmont concierge team can help book them.

As a repeat visitor, I can attest that the lakes and their surrounding trails are reason enough to visit Alberta. Lake Louise is unbelievably blue, thanks to reflective rock flour (a fine sediment created by glacial erosion). Additionally, there are two tea houses perched above it that are my all-time favorite hiking destinations. Active clients will want to schedule a few hours each for the trail to Lake Agnes Tea House (4.5 miles out and back) and the trail to Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House (9 miles out and back).

Strolls in the town of Banff are a must, as well. If you’re out early or late enough, elk and deer sightings along the river are likely. In late spring, black bears and grizzly bears are out, too.

And whatever adventures clients choose, they have a castle to relax in after.