Hidden Alaska

Oct 25, 2008

Huge boulders loomed up like Hulk-sized linebackers, cutting the river current into two whitewater pools that passed harmlessly on each side. I could see salmon swirling in the deepest portions, in water as clear as the wind tussling through our hair. Above me, one of several rocky spires of the Alaska Range skewered the autumn sky. Hundreds of brown bear tracks pressed heavily into the beach sand, remnants of the bruins’ search for silver salmon that would spawn in the shallow-water pools near shore.

These sights were abundant during my Hidden Alaska seven-day adventure float through the heart of the Alaska Range, less than 90 miles west of Anchorage.

Clients float down one of several rivers during a Hidden Alaska adventure tour.

We set up camp on a remote gravel bar, close enough to hear the river, yet far enough away from the bear trails to hopefully minimize any encounter. And rightly so. The allure of fresh-baked biscuits wafted into the wilderness air from the Dutch oven, and soon steaks were sizzling over the campfire coals. While dining, our group party reclined leisurely around the campfire, and we listened to stories of Alaska pioneers, of bold pilots, eccentric trappers and city-slicker clients who thought they knew it all.

But Mike "Buck" Bowden of Hidden Alaska offers exactly what his business name implies: A part of Alaska not seen or experienced by motorcoach or flightseeing tourists.

"It amazes me that there aren’t more people out here," said Bowden. "But that’s the way it is out here in hard-to-access Alaska."

Our trip began via bush plane from Anchorage, which landed on a gravel bar near the river. The only way out was by bush plane from another gravel bar 70 miles downstream. I knew I was in for one heck of a ride, but at least I was in good company.

The advantage of having a guide like Bowden who has lived, fished, snowmobiled, rode horses and trapped in the area for over 30 years, is that each bend has a story worth listening to. While I enjoyed the scenery and up-close wildlife viewing, the stories that came with it kept me spellbound and entertained for the entire trip.

While the river is mostly Class I with some Class II whitewater, this isn’t a kick-back-and-relax type of trip. There is plenty for participants to do on the river to help fend off sweepers, kick off boulders and dislodge trees that block the river. We had to disembark three times to cut cottonwoods or huge spruce trees that had blocked the main channel. It was either unpack the entire inflatable or get out the chain saw.

"The last time I was down here two weeks ago, we only had to remove one tree," said Mike Strahan, one of the guides on the trip. "Now we’ve had to cut three trees so far, with another 10 miles to go."

As it turned out, we had smooth water the entire way to the pickup point at Hidden Alaska’s main lodge and base of operations.

The lodge is a few miles by ATV from the river — a cozy main building with comfortable guest cabins, sauna and outhouse facilities. Propane fuel and electricity via solar panels and a generator allows clients to recharge batteries and replay videos of the day’s events. Superb fishing for rainbow trout at the lake is available, but most clients scramble atop a snowmobile or four-wheeler and take one of several trails that course through the wooded riparian bottomland and high alpine areas. From there, clients can expect excellent views of the Alaska Range, as well as great opportunities to photograph bears, moose and caribou.

For the float trips, a two-person minimum is required, and three- and seven-day or longer guided packages are available starting at $500 a day and up.

"Winter is also a great time to be here," Bowden said. "The weather is almost always sunny and clear."

Bowden has numerous, rustic outpost cabins scattered throughout the region, making an overnight winter camping trip a must-do adventure.

"Hearing the wolves howl while watching the Northern Lights overhead is an experience that anyone who visits here never forgets," he said.