Beyond Seattle's Center: A Family Travel Guide to Whidbey Island

Historically, I’ve been the type of traveler who struggles to return to the same location twice; the shiny and new-to-me destination is usually where I lean. But it’s often true that a person’s web of friends and family draws them back to certain places — and Seattle is such a spot for my family, as some of our closest college buddies have put down roots in the city’s suburbs.

The obvious perk to any return trip is that you get to explore that landing place further — and, ideally, in a more relaxed state. And that’s just what my family did this past summer, spending a week on the outskirts of the Emerald City. Since we had already wandered Pike Place Market, squirmed at the sight of The Gum Wall and gotten soaked at the International Fountain on previous trips, we played it more like locals during this visit, heading to beautiful Whidbey Island and a few other nearby gems. 

Here’s where to go during a visit to Seattle if you, too, are ready to skip the heart of the city altogether.

Whidbey Island and Charming Lodging

Water is like air in Seattle — it’s absolutely everywhere. Sounds, rivers and countless lakes are often what draw outdoor enthusiasts like myself to this part of the Pacific Northwest, so I’ve had a stay on Whidbey Island in my sights for years. The largest island in Washington state — at about 37 miles long — Whidbey is easily reached via a 20-minute ride on the Mukilteo Ferry, which you’ll find about 25 miles north of downtown Seattle. You can drive your car right onboard the ferry, too, which is not something this Californian had ever done.

From the ferry dock in the town of Clinton, we drove about 30 miles to our island home, Captain Whidbey. Built in 1907 on the sheltered and serene Penn Cove, the inn features a moody main lodge that feels like a time machine — built with old madrona logs and still home to an original stone fireplace, as well as charmingly creaky floors and nautical-leaning decor. Playing a game of chess by the window feels as if you’re lounging in a sailor’s quarters. 

Just off the common room is the property’s incredible restaurant, where diners can revel in Penn Cove clams and mussels. And while the bar at the back is a bustling place, it’s a particularly wonderful spot to enjoy a cocktail outside on the porch overlooking the sea.

As for accommodations, there are rustic, cozy rooms in the Historic Lodge, plus a handful of cabins with fireplaces and private patios. Down a garden path is a two-story structure with Lagoon Rooms overlooking the waterfront. (With just 30 rooms and cabins total and an option for full or partial buyouts, Captain Whidbey makes for an intimate event location.) 

We arrived at the inn as a multifamily group, and our stay felt like an all-ages summer camp experience. The kids played tag on various lawns, crept on the property’s weblike tree net and searched for sea stars, hermit crabs and other marine life from the dock and shore. The parents did far less, enjoying the freedom that came with how independent our kids could be. The mothers in the group even staged our own small escape via kayak — an independent hourlong paddle on Penn Cove is a complimentary treat for Captain Whidbey guests (clients can also book a two-hour guided kayak tour). As I cruised the cove, seals popped up from below the water’s surface like spies, and I came to a halt at one point in order to watch a pair of bald eagles balance on neighboring treetops. So much for not repeating a visit; even my husband, who’s far less inclined to travel than I am, says a return to Captain Whidbey is a must.

Where to Play on Whidbey

For two days, we hunted and pecked our way around Whidbey Island. Playing in the waves and rocks at Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve — one of many beloved beaches on the island — was a highlight for the entire group; the shore faces Puget Sound, and the Olympic Mountains loom to the southwest. Nearby is the town of Coupeville, where we headed for multiscoop ice cream cones at local spot Kapaws Iskreme and a walk around the seaside Kingfisher Bookstore. For caffeination, we uncovered Mukilteo Coffee Roasters, which is tucked into the woods and neighbors with Seabiscuit Bakery, a refuge for cookies and board games under a fir tree canopy.

At the northernmost point of Whidbey Island is Deception Pass State Park, Washington’s most-visited state park. With some 40 miles of hiking trails and a great rocky beach below Deception Pass Bridge, this park is a great place to spend a day — so long as you’ve packed provisions; I recommend the wildly delicious sandwiches from Greenbank Pantry & Deli. The bridge connects Whidbey with Fidalgo Island, and it’s the only way to drive right to Whidbey, versus taking the ferry.

Nearby Gems

Back on the mainland, there is just as much beauty nearby Whidbey. Taylor Shellfish Farms’ Samish Oyster Bar and Shellfish Market — set right on Samish Bay in Bow, Wash. — is a wonder for shellfish devotees. Arguably the world’s most scenic oyster shack, it’s sensory overload in the best way: the salty sea air in your nose, oyster beds in the horizon and just-harvested oysters to enjoy on a rustic patio at the water’s edge. 

For hands-on fun a tad closer to Seattle, take the kids to Mountainview Blueberry Farm in Snohomish. Open seasonally, the farm offers pick-them-yourself blueberries, plus the well-loved and dented tin bucket you’ll need to carry your treasures. Both my tween and toddler hopped right to it, looking for the fattest and bluest berries they could find. We had every intention of making a pie or at least muffins, but the berries were so delicious, they lasted less than a day. Between the berries and our Whidbey adventures, we didn’t miss the city one bit.