On Nov. 24, 2021, South African scientists announced their discovery of the Omicron variant of COVID-19. Within days, travel bans to South Africa and other Southern African countries were imposed by scores of nations (including the U.S., on Nov. 29). Criticized by the United Nations and the World Health Organization, the travel restrictions were gradually lifted by mid-December, and the U.S. followed suit on Dec. 31.
Unfortunately timed, just as the summer season was kicking off, the month-long restrictions dealt a heavy blow to the country’s tourism sector.
Travel bans on southern Africa greatly affected tour operators in the region.
Credit: 2022 Ker & Downey Africa
“The recent travel bans had a significant impact on both new and existing bookings to South Africa and its neighboring countries,” said Marcelo Novais, general manager, North America, for Ker & Downey Africa, an award-winning luxury DMC. “Most clients who had originally expressed interest in booking their travel plans to Southern Africa over the summer period have decided to put off their inquiry to a later stage in order to analyze the impact of the new variant.”
The Rise and Fall of the Omicron Variant
The South African government announced that its Omnicon wave peaked during the last week of December. Now, the country is currently sitting at COVID-19 Alert Level 1, the lowest of its five tiers, which imposes social distancing and face coverings in all public places and restrictions on large gatherings of more than 1,000 (indoors) and 2,000 (outdoors). An additional positive turning point was the removal of the country’s longstanding curfew on Dec. 31, just in time for New Year’s Eve celebrations.
After reassurances from friends and family on the ground that the situation was safe and calm, I boarded my flight for Cape Town — one that had previously been rescheduled three times due to the travel bans — earlier this month.
South Africa Entry Requirements
Upon disembarking the aircraft, passengers’ temperatures were checked and a negative PCR test from within 72 hours of departure was presented to customs' officers. The whole entry process was quick and efficient, and just one of the many times I noticed how seriously safety measures are being taken in the country. In addition, all public venues provide hand sanitizer at the entrances (or an attendant to administer sanitizer spray), and abundant signage ensures health protocols and social distancing are adhered to.
COVID-19 Protocols at Tourist Attractions
There are also enhanced measures at tourist sites, as I witnessed at Cango Caves, a 20 million-year-old network of limestone chambers near the town of Oudtshoorn and one of South Africa’s most visited natural heritage sites. Advanced bookings are required to control visitor numbers, and the popular Adventure Tour — which involves entering narrow passageways and tunnels — has been suspended.
The site normally receives 250,000 tourists per year, 60% of whom are foreign. I was the only non-South African resident on our tour, although I did encounter other foreigners at attractions in Cape Town and the Cape Winelands. The fewer tourists meant that no venue was crowded, and I felt at ease virtually everywhere I went. The lower numbers may be positive for visitors, but not for tourism professionals.
The author encountered some tourists at Cape Winelands, though most of them were South Africans.
Credit: 2022 Lily Heise"The travel bans have been devastating to the hospitality sector,” said Georgio Meletiou, former group Sommelier for Sun International and co-founder of Married To Wine, a wine tasting and consultancy company. “A lot of hotels, restaurants and wineries had to let staff go or request they take a pay cut. This will be an issue for the next generation of hoteliers who won’t have a recruitment pool of qualified staff.”
The travel bans have been devastating to the hospitality sector … This will be an issue for the next generation of hoteliers who won’t have a recruitment pool of qualified staff.
Despite these issues, there is a silver lining, explained Samarie Smith, co-founder of Married To Wine.
"The situation has compelled hospitality professionals to be creative and partner with each other in innovative ways,” she said. “It’s something that sets South Africa apart."
Signs of Tourism Picking Up
Locals remain optimistic, and there are already signs of tourism picking up. I spotted proof of this while strolling through Cape Town’s vibrant V&A Waterfront; MSC Cruises’ MSC Orchestra was moored at its docks, preparing for its first cruise since the travel bans.
See signs of the resumption of tourism and cruising at the V&A Waterfront
Credit: 2022 Lily Heise“MSC’s return gives confidence and good news for the tourism sector that we may still have a cruising season left of our summer,” said David Green, CEO of the V&A Waterfront. “The cruise industry is one of the last sectors to resume operations, and we’re excited and ready to safely welcome back local and international guests and crews to Cape Town. We expect that we can look forward to more operators resuming their operations to call into Cape Town for the 2022-2023 season, with a real prospect of us returning to our pre-COVID-19 growth."
Currently, clients from the U.S. are approaching international travel over this period with caution, and most of the bookings that we have received are for June and beyond.
A similar sentiment was expressed by Ker & Downey Africa’s Novais, who added: “Prior to the travel bans, we saw an increase in bookings for travel to Southern Africa in 2022. Currently, clients from the U.S. are approaching international travel over this period with caution, and most of the bookings that we have received are for June and beyond.”
However, I felt completely safe and secure during my whole trip. My PCR test to take my return flight was easily administered at a local PathCare clinic (where tests cost about $35-$80). While visitors might be slow to trickle back for South Africa’s 2022 summer season, the North American summer is an ideal time to visit Kruger National Park, which also offers the benefit of activities in the wide open and fresh air.
