Review: Hotel San Cristobal in Todos Santos, Mexico

Near the seaside town of Todos Santos, on Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, devoted fishermen have lured in yellowtail, grouper, mahi-mahi, tuna and more for generations. By 6:30 a.m. every morning, the stick-and-line fisherman has his toes in the sand just north of the rocky outcropping that is Punto Lobos, swirling his baited hook in the air like a lasso before flinging it into the waves. Small crews in blue and white motorized pangas tug their friends’ vessels off the shore and out to sea with the same aim: to catch and sell the treasures of the Pacific Ocean.

Just steps from the open-air office of these anglers is Hotel San Cristobal, a Bunkhouse property open since 2017. Much of what the neighboring fishermen reel in is sold directly to the hotel for sea-to-table fish tacos, ceviches, aguachiles and pesca en mole verde. 

It’s a happy symbiosis, I learned during a visit last December — hotel guests are merry and the property is thriving with many locals on staff. The Bunkhouse team has prioritized bolstering the Todos Santos community from day one, training interested residents in hospitality and hiring them in myriad roles, from assistant general manager and sommelier to chef and concierge. And the on-site team is close-knit. Spend three days here and you’ll feel as if you’ve stumbled into a family reunion — and that you’re part of the clan now, too.

Accommodations at Hotel San Cristobal

With just 32 guestrooms and suites total, Hotel San Cristobal is indeed boutique, and great for small groups or intimate events. Guests must be 12 years of age or older, and the vibe is mellow at every turn — while the property is only 45 miles away from the flashy resorts of Los Cabos, guests don’t sense that proximity here.

All rooms come with that beautiful Baja light and a real sense of serenity. Smooth cement walls are painted cream, and against that cool palette, brilliant orange, yellow and pink details pop, from Guatemalan blankets on beds and custom stripy robes to the property’s signature tile, each one an eddy of pink, green, purple and yellow.

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Poolside rooms and those overlooking the Sierra De La Laguna mountains to the east are lovely choices, but for a wow factor, book clients in an oceanfront room. Six of these were recently renovated to include individual saltwater pools on their spacious furnished patios, and they are ideal for a honeymoon, a milestone celebration or just a much-needed escape into nature. 

I watched the sun sink into the sea from the pool of my 550-square-foot Ocean King room, observed the resident pelicans of Punto Lobos fly by each day, and read for a while with the waves as my soundtrack. And these waves are no joke. Like many of the beaches in Los Cabos (which is about one hour south), this one isn’t great for swimming, which is evident from the roar and power of the waves; they occasionally even shook the glass of my oversized patio sliders when they pounded the shore. 

What to Do at Hotel San Cristobal

At the risk of sounding overly obvious, I’d name dining (more on that below) and “lounging around” as the top things to do at Hotel San Cristobal. Clients can do the latter somewhere around the 2,200-square-foot, Tetris-block-shaped pool, which boasts two spillover hot tubs and wide ocean views. With a refreshing cocktail in hand and the Pacific ahead, it’s hard to leave any lounge chair here.

If a guest does grow restless, they might wander the property next. Put a record on in la biblioteca, a cozy room near the front desk, or peruse hats, home goods, jewelry and more in the incredibly curated gift shop.

For more of a toes-in-the-sand experience, take the steep but short staircase down to the beach for a moment by the sea, or while away a few hours at “La Playita,” a sandy lounge space perched just above the main beach and outfitted with twinkle lights, hammocks, more lounge chairs and a fire pit perfectly positioned for watching the sunset.

Guests looking for more activity can pick from a number of complimentary experiences. Every Monday and Friday morning there’s a guided hike that leaves right from the property; my group trekked roughly 3 miles out and back, passing plenty of Cardon cacti and the remains of an abalone cannery — one of the property’s distinct event venues  — on the way to a bluff overlooking the blue-green cove of Puerto Viejo. 

The next evening brought Hotel San Cristobal’s Tuesday happy hour, when a local band plays tunes with the black sea and night sky as their backdrop. And on Wednesday, during the “Playita Popsicles and Games” event hosted by the hotel, I tried my luck at Loteria for the first time ever, brushing up on my Spanish while drinking Pacifico with new friends. Rooftop yoga and a sound bath ceremony in the resort’s minimalist and beautiful chapel are other complimentary activities. A cooking class or wine or mezcal tasting can be booked for a fee through the concierge team. And if clients are very intrepid, they might borrow a beach cruiser and ride to the town center of Todos Santos via a 3-mile bike path. 

Dining at Hotel San Cristobal

There are three on-site dining venues at Hotel San Cristobal, including the pool bar, where clients will find fantastic fish or shrimp tacos and other light bites.

For a slightly more formal dining experience, there’s Benno. At breakfast here, I could not stray from the desayuno choyero, which staffers call a staple plate for locals — regional machaca rolled up in handmade flour tortillas and served alongside avocado, black beans and salsa. And a basket of house-made pastries is a must, especially the orejas, a delightfully crispy pan dulce named for its ear-like shape. For dinner, the catch of the day in a green mole is hard to beat.

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And brand-new to the property in late 2023 is Cosecha, a 52-seat, alfresco restaurant in a secret-garden-like setting just in front of the hotel’s entry. The menu is an ode to the land, with many ingredients procured from Hotel San Cristobal’s on-site garden. I was among the first to try dishes like beet carpaccio salad and esquites, a bowl of white corn, epazote (a regional herb), parmesan and homemade mayonnaise topped with a fried shrimp. It was my last night at Hotel San Cristobal and a delicious finish. Organic chicken and — no surprise here — a catch of the day option are on the menu, too.

And as much as Cosecha feels like a final puzzle piece to complete Hotel San Cristobal, I’d venture a guess that there are more details to come. My impression was one of a team always looking to the future, and wondering how they might give guests yet another gorgeous corner to linger in.