Review: Courtyard Oahu North Shore

I hadn’t been to rural Laie in years, so staycationing there recently — far from the crowds and traffic of my East Oahu suburb — was a treat. My escape to Marriott’s newly renovated Courtyard Oahu North Shore began with a scenic drive: 40-plus miles, primarily hugging the verdant windward coast. Just past the town of Kaneohe, the road narrowed to two lanes, reminding me why I love being in the country.

Long stretches were bordered by the verdant Koolau mountain range, rising to the clouds on one side and flowing toward the ocean on the other — the azure water lapped the coast just a few feet from the asphalt in several spots. Seemingly every kind of tropical flower, shrub and tree adorned the roadside.

It was, simply put, peaceful. There were no masses of cars, people or buildings. Disconnected from the hubbub, my computer and a lengthy list of things to do, I could feel my stress level drop.

Renovations and Amenities

With just 144 rooms, Courtyard Oahu North Shore is very much in sync with the area’s lowkey vibe. An 11-month renovation, completed in August, included refreshed guestrooms, upgraded recreational facilities and a reimagined lobby, which — furnished with sofas, tables, comfy chairs and plump cushions — invites guests to gather.

Larger parties can book one of four new Family Rooms; these sleep six with a king bed and two twin bunk beds. Seven new King Suites feature a kitchenette equipped with a full fridge and a double-burner cooktop, cookware and tableware. With a king bed and a sofa bed, those spacious rooms can accommodate four.

Luring guests outdoors are a waterfall-fed pool, cornhole, volleyball, pickleball and half-court basketball. I was happy to go for an afternoon dip in the pool, but those looking forward to playtime in the ocean can rent kayaks, paddleboards, surfboards, boogie boards and snorkel gear. Five beautiful beaches are within 30 minutes of the hotel; one is right across the street.

Dining Options

The Bistro, the on-site cafe, is a convenient stop for breakfast items, snacks, salads and sandwiches. For heartier fare, I recommend Hukilau Marketplace at the adjacent Polynesian Cultural Center. Admission to this top Oahu attraction is not required to shop or eat there, and my boyfriend and I appreciated the plethora of takeout choices for lunch and dinner: everything from crepes, kalbi short ribs, burgers and burritos to garlic shrimp and gourmet hot dogs with toppings such as pesto, bacon, avocado and onion rings.

Named after a famous bodysurfing beach a half-mile away, Pounders Restaurant at Hukilau Marketplace offers sit-down dining and a menu full of local favorites. We settled on a poke bowl, kalua pig sliders and Korean chicken with lilikoi (passion fruit) aioli.

Ambassador of Aloha

Although Courtyard Oahu North Shore doesn’t have a concierge desk, guests receive leaflets offering dozens of North Shore dining and activity suggestions at check-in, along with a welcome box of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts. Even better? Most of the hotel’s 80 employees live on the North Shore and are happy to share insider tips. They include 79-year-old “Aunty” Kela Miller, the hotel’s “ambassador of aloha,” who’s a lifelong resident of Laie. Every morning except Saturday, she leads complimentary cultural activities in the lobby.

I enjoyed “talking story” with her about her childhood in Laie — pulling weeds in the taro patches and learning hula from her mother and aunties; eating candy her grandmother made from grated coconut, honey and molasses; and playing dodgeball, marbles and jacks.

We didn’t need cellphones or video games; life in Laie was simple, but good,” Miller told me as she deftly wove a bracelet from dried strips of hala (pandanus) leaves. “Did you know the shaka sign and steel guitar came from here? So did ‘The Hukilau Song.’”

Hukilau — an ancient Hawaiian style of fishing — was common in Laie in the old days, Miller says. Residents would tie long leaves (lau) to ropes that were attached to a big seine; the leaves would move with the ocean, causing frightened fish to swim into the net. Then, everyone would huki, or pull the net to shore and divide what hopefully would be a big catch.

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In 1940, a fire destroyed Laie’s Mormon church. The following year, Pearl Harbor was bombed, and Hawaii — then a U.S. territory — was thrust into World War II along with the rest of the country. The congregation wasn’t able to begin efforts to rebuild the church until after the war ended.

To raise money, the town decided to put on a monthly Hukilau celebration, Miller told me, where visitors could help pull in a fishnet, buy handmade crafts, watch cultural demonstrations, attend a luau and enjoy Polynesian songs and dances — all planned by church members and executed with the help of North Shore neighbors.

Tickets were sold to visitors in Waikiki, and Laie’s inaugural Hukilau was held in January 1948. Well-known singer-songwriter Jack Owens attended the event that year and was inspired to write “The Hukilau Song,” which became so popular it was recorded by numerous artists, including Bing Crosby.

“I teach guests the hula to that song,” Miller said. “I think learning stories about Laie enhances their stay at this hotel. And who better to tell those stories than us, the people of Laie who know them best?”