Driving into town from the airport, San Luis Potosi looked like a
prosperous industrial city, a landscape of factories, convenience
stores and Wal-Marts. I was worried, thinking that maybe I would
have been better off taking a trip to Detroit.
It wasn’t until we reached the center of the old city that I
discovered why so many people rank San Luis Potosi as one of
Mexico’s great off-the-beaten-path destinations. Once a capital of
New Spain, the city, at its core, is a maze of pristine parks, old
cathedrals and grand theaters. After a quick three-day sponsored
trip, I was ready to add San Luis to my list of favorite colonial
cities, joining the likes of Guanajuato and Oaxaca.
Wonders of Colonial Mexico
Like many other colonial cities, San Luis exudes an air of
vibrancy and culture. Its growth was fueled by the treasures of
silver and gold pulled from the surrounding mountains. Later it was
a haven for heroes of Mexico’s fight for freedom, the city where
Francisco Madero devised his famous Plan of San Luis Potosi, the
spark of the 1910 revolution. As we toured the old city center, we
passed a statue in one of the city’s beautiful squares honoring
revolutionary firebrand Praxedis Guerrero, which was engraved
“Independence or death.”
San Luis, as it is widely known, is still the thriving capital
of the state of San Luis Potosi, the center of commerce for the
stark high-desert region. In January, American Airlines started
daily direct service from Dallas, in part due to the strong
cultural and business ties between San Luis and Hispanics in
Texas.
There are signs of new construction everywhere, and several
U.S.-based hotel chains have properties in the area, including
Hilton and Holiday Inn. We stayed in a new Country Inn and Suites
on the outskirts of town, which I thought was an odd choice since
it was so far removed from San Luis’ old-world charm. But I soon
realized that staying outside the city center made it easy to avoid
local traffic and hit the main highway for day trips exploring the
region.
One day we visited the small village of Santa Maria del Rio,
which is known for its handmade rebozos, intricate and colorful
shawls. We left about 8:30 a.m. and arrived in the quiet town of
old churches and lovely squares by 10 a.m., after an hour’s drive
on a well-maintained highway through the breathtaking countryside
of sage and towering cacti.
While Santa Maria made for a pleasant excursion, there was no
comparison to the drama and splendor of the next day’s trip to the
old ghost town of Real de Catorce, one of the wonders of Old
Mexico. Tucked into a secluded valley deep in the mountains about a
three-hour drive from San Luis, it was formerly one of the richest
cities in the world, thanks to the treasures of silver and gold
flowing from its mines.
To guard against bandits, the city is only accessible by a long
narrow tunnel, which still provides the only entrance to the city.
The modern Catorce is an exotic collection of stone streets and
ancient buildings, a haven for artists and philosophers seeking
visions of nature, which may or may not reflect the popularity of
peyote in the region.
As we wandered the streets, we ran into a group of three
American men in their 30s who had taken a bus to Catorce from
Texas.
“We just wanted to go somewhere where we wouldn’t be overrun by
gringos,” said Joe Orth of Houston.
The City Comes Alive
After a few hours exploring the old town, we piled into trucks
for the ride up the mountain to the ghost town. As the trucks
slowly bumped over the steep mule trails, more than once we let out
a collective gasp when our driver navigated a turn, leaving us
teetering dangerously on the edge of a cliff.
The ghost town stretches over the mountains in an intricate
collection of stone ruins, most less than 200 years old. The
abandoned mine shafts cut into the rock seemingly bottomless pits,
where miners once risked their lives to bring out the precious
metals.
The desolation of Catorce provided a stark contrast to the
energetic atmosphere of the modern city of San Luis, which is home
to several large schools. At night, the streets are alive with
music and boisterous conversations flowing from cozy restaurants
with old wood tables and white linen table clothes. One night a
group of musicians in traditional costumes serenaded us on the
streets.
“I thought it would be a small city,” said Maria Aboy of Aboy
Travel in Plano, Tex., an agent on the fam trip. “It’s nothing like
what I thought.”
Aboy plans to send clients to San Luis who love “going back in
time to visit the old Spanish colonial towns,” perhaps combining it
with a visit to Guanajuato, which is about a two-hour drive from
San Luis. A trip to San Luis “is like going back to old Europe,”
she said.
| THE DETAILS GETTING THERE
American Airlines now offers daily service from Dallas to San Luis
Potosi.
WHERE TO STAY
Westin San Luis Potosi: An elegant hotel adorned with old stone
arches and traditional Mexican art, located about 15 minutes from
the center of town.
www.starwood.com.mx Country Inn & Suites: Low on the charm meter, but easy,
clean and comfortable, located on the main highway about 10 minutes
from the town center.
www.countryinns.com/sanluispotosimex WHERE TO EAT
Callejon San Francisco: Just off one of the city’s most tranquil
squares, it’s famous for its rooftop terrace and hearty beefsteak
dishes. Universidad 169; 444-812-4508 Rincon Huasteca: On the outskirts of the city center, an
excellent place to sample local delicacies, including exotic
recipes made with regional cactus. Cuauhtemoc No. 232;
444-814-6003 WHEN TO GO
San Luis is known for its festivals, which attract artists and
performers from all over the region.
May: The Festival de las Artes runs for 10 days
July: Dance is spotlighted at the Festival de la Danza
August: Parade and celebration honoring the city’s patron saint,
San Luis Rey CONTACT
San Luis Potosi Tourism Office
444-812-9939
www.visitasanluispotosi.com |
