My eyes scanned the densely wooded and rocky shoreline of the Orford River, squinting through the dripping rain to spot any type of movement. Perched high on a wooden outpost, I felt safe, but my heartbeat quickened in anticipation of sighting a grizzly bear in the wild.
"I think I see something," gasped a fellow traveler, tightly clutching the binoculars she was peering through.
We all turned to look in the direction she had pointed. Sure enough, a lone scraggly grizzly was slowly tromping through the shallow river, its dark brown coat camouflaging it against the tree trunks. It was on a mission to catch one of the thousands of salmon fighting their way upstream.
This thrilling bear sighting was just one of many adventures I had while visiting Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The island — located on the traditional territories of the Kwakwaka'wakw, Nuu-chah-nulth and Coast Salish people — offers a scenic, rugged landscape; outdoor adventures on land and water; and insight into Indigenous cultures. Some 285 miles long, Vancouver Island is made up of pristine beaches, dense forests, winding waterways, charming port towns, sparsely inhabited islands and the vibrant capital city of Victoria. While visiting, I was moved by the stunning beauty, rich Indigenous history and majestic, abundant wildlife.
Adventures by Land and Sea
On the northern part of the island, visitors and locals can hike through miles of wilderness or take a scenic boat tour from any number of small, idyllic port towns to see flora and fauna up close. Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours, for one, offers bear- and whale-watching excursions with Indigenous guides who share their knowledge of the wildlife, sea life and Homalco First Nation peoples. Our tour departed by boat from the city of Campbell River, meandered through breathtaking fjords and around the Discovery Islands in the Salish Sea and arrived at Bute Inlet, the traditional territory of the Homalco. We spotted countless sea otters (with pups!), five killer whales, a humpback whale and a half-dozen grizzly bears during our adventure.
For those wanting more in-depth knowledge about the local Indigenous heritage, U'mista Cultural Centre provides educational displays — from videos and photographs to artwork and exhibits — that describe the significance of traditional song and dance, wood carvings, weaving, painting, ceremonies and storytelling. To reach the museum, visitors can take a scenic ferry ride from Port McNeill to the small village of Alert Bay, on Cormorant Island; from there it is a five-minute drive to the center.
Otters may be spotted at Bute Inlet, the traditional territory of the Homalco First Nation peoples.
Credit: 2024 Sharael KolbergAlso reachable from Port McNeill is one of the most charming places I visited: Telegraph Cove, located on Vancouver Island North. The historic fishing village features a wooden boardwalk that meanders through colorful cabins and heritage buildings, and visitors will find various accommodations, dining options and eco-tours. We stopped at the impressive Whale Interpretive Centre, where I found myself in awe of the large collection of marine mammal skeletons, including a juvenile humpback whale and two killer whales.
For those seeking a unique, memorable adventure, Oceanfix Dive Centre in Campbell River offers gear for an exhilarating salmon snorkeling experience during the fall months. As I headed swiftly down the cold river, face down, thousands of salmon darted past as I tried to avoid hitting rocks in the shallow areas.
For more of a small-city experience, Nanaimo has craft beer, interesting museums, quaint boutiques, art galleries, waterfalls and outdoor recreation. (Fun fact: Canada’s favorite sweet treat, the Nanaimo Bar, is named after this city.) To get a taste of a Nanaimo Bar in various forms, visit the stops on the Nanaimo Bar Trail that winds through the downtown area. It's also convenient to take the new Hullo fast-service ferry to get to Nanaimo from Vancouver in 70 minutes.
Book a tour with Homalco Wildlife & Cultural Tours for bear- and whale-watching excursions with Indigenous guides.
Credit: 2024 Sharael KolbergWhere to Dine
Whether clients are looking for a burger, a salad, fresh fish or a plant-based meal, Vancouver Island has a variety of dining options. Some of my favorites include Nax'id' Pub in Port Hardy for a casual meal, Devils' Bath Brewing Co. in Port McNeill for craft beer and artisan pizza and The Modern in Nanaimo for locally sourced cuisine. Campbell River, meanwhile, has options such as Session, which combines beer and fitness; More Eatery, a restaurant and deli; Freyja, a croissant bakery; and Fifty Parallel Tap & Grill, a casual Greek spot with great views.
Where to Sleep
There aren't many five-star hotels on Vancouver Island — the vibe is more laid-back and outdoorsy — but the hotels I stayed at were comfortable and less expensive than properties in Vancouver. Support the Indigenous-owned Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy, stay in downtown Campbell River at the budget-friendly Coast Discovery Inn, or book a room at Marriott’s Courtyard Nanaimo.
