Tidal Bore Rafting in Nova Scotia's Bay of Fundy

Only truly brave riders sit at the front of the Zodiac when it’s about to hit the tidal bore — or perhaps it’s the truly ill-informed riders. The guy clinging to the front of our raft had confessed he didn’t know how to swim, so I guessed that he fell into the second category.

When our guide, Kristy, turned the raft abruptly and headed at high speed to meet the oncoming wave, I wrapped my fingers around the rope along the sides and braced for impact. The raft jolted upward, and everything was obscured from view as sludgy water poured over the front and engulfed us. When I checked my knuckles afterward, I was missing some skin. The rider at the front was lying inside the raft, curled up in the fetal position, but I think his knuckles might have fared better than mine.

Nova Scotia’s Bay of Fundy is famous for having the world’s highest tides. When the moon is right, the incoming tide from the bay forms a wave of water that is more than 10 feet high in the Shubenacadie River — they call this the tidal bore. Twice a day when the tide changes, the bore flows into the river with such force that it temporarily reverses the flow of the river. When the water hits sandbars at high speed, it creates an incredible roller coaster of rapids. 

About 30 years ago, H. Knoll and his son John realized the potential of rafting this tidal bore. Using specially modified Zodiac boats with high-powered motors, they created the sport of tidal-bore rafting and started the world’s first tidal-bore rafting company. As their business grew, they built Tidal Bore Rafting Resort, a river resort with a lodge, cabins and hiking trails. There are now more than half a dozen operators who offer tidal bore rafting experiences, but the original is still the best.

As Kristy circled the Zodiac around to hit the rapids again, I couldn’t help thinking that we had been standing on that exact spot in the middle of the river only moments before. In place of the dry sandbar was a set of angry-looking rapids. 

Kristy maneuvered the zodiac over the rapids several times, and when the rapids became less intense in that particular spot, she followed the tidal bore up the river to a new spot. We noticed several bald eagles soaring overhead, and Kristy said the advancing tide provided an excellent fishing opportunity for the eagles — though I wondered how they could find the fish in the muddy water. 

We followed the tidal bore up the river and hit dozens of sets of rapids, while changing positions in the boat several times, so different people could experience the thrill of riding in front. When we all had enough, Kristy steered the boat to the edge of the river where we got out and slid down the muddy banks. Some of the rafters even started a mud fight. By the time we headed back, the rapids were gone, and everyone was brave enough to sit in the front of the boat.

The Details
Tidal Bore Rafting Resort
www.raftingcanada.ca