Tanzania’s northern safari circuit is an incredibly popular safari route, home to places like Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Crater. But there’s more to see and do in this part of the world, including some very special and off-the-beaten-track experiences. Below are suggestions for intrepid and active clients looking to trek Tanzania.
Lake Natron, Tanzania
About 13 miles northeast of Ngorongoro Crater lies the remote and captivating Lake Natron. Fed by natural springs, the lake’s waters are a rich mix of salts and minerals known as “natron,” hence the body of water’s name. In the dry season the lake’s water temperatures can reach a scalding 140 degrees and, as the water level drops, minerals form a crust over the surface, and bold-colored algae thrive there. It’s an incredible, inhospitable and visually dramatic landscape.
Just 10 feet deep but 12 miles wide, Lake Natron is the breeding site for 2.5 million Lesser Flamingos who, along with Greater Flamingos, make their nests on mounds of salty mud from August to October each year. Incredibly, 75% of the world’s Lesser Flamingos are born here, and it’s the algae, cyanobacteria and salt-loving phytoplankton that flourish in the lake’s waters that feed the flamingos and give them their pinkish color.
Clients who make their way here might take a walk across the mud flats towards the lake at sunset. Ahead, the shallow water is a flurry of activity. Shimmering pink multitudes of flamingos, heads down and bills underwater, tramp through the shallows, swinging their heads back and forth as they filter feed.
An aerial view into the crater of Ol Doinyo Lengai
Credit: 2024 Lake Natron CampHiking Ol Doinyo Lengai
From Lake Natron, clients are sure to see the 9,718-foot Ol Doinyo Lengai looming in the distance. This is an active volcano, and the only active carbonatite volcano in the world (meaning it erupts magma full of alkali elements). Known to the Maasai as the “Mountain of God,” Ol Doinyo Lengai is considered the toughest day hike in East Africa.
Eco-accommodation Lake Natron Camp acts as a hub for this area, and trekkers can book a guided moonlight hike of the volcano via the camp. Hikers will wake up at 11 p.m. for the one-hour drive to the base of Lengai. Backpacks and head torches at the ready, the trek begins, dark and steep. Walking in almost total silence, my group stopped every hour or so for a breather. Some scrambling was required, and at times we even crawled on all fours. The top third of the climb has some near-vertical, rocky stretches, and near the summit, cracks between the rocks emit sulfurous steam, and the scenery is otherworldly. It takes roughly 6 hours to reach the steep-sided crater rim, where the view down into the caldera is of molten rocks and bubbling lava.
Heading back down before the sun has risen, the descent can be slippery and slow, but it’s a good idea to get down before the heat of the day kicks in. The climb down takes roughly 3 hours, and some crawling (and sliding) is bound to occur. By the halfway point, the steepest section is done. The views seem endless: the tips of Mount Meru and Kilimanjaro in the east, the Kenyan border to the north and, across to the west, the Sale Plains and the Gol Mountains.
This is not a trek for the faint-hearted; climbers need to be both fit and steady on their feet to attempt it. But a moonlit ascent of Ol Doinyo Lengai is worth it for the unbelievable views and the sense of achievement.
Moderate Hikes From Lake Natron Camp
If tackling Lengai is too daunting, there are several other hikes in the area that require less expertise, such as a guided half-day hike in Rift Valley. Trekkers leave camp before dawn and start their adventure at the base of the Rift Valley wall, which they’ll scale on foot, ascending close to Ngare Sero Gorge in time for sunrise. A picnic breakfast is included, which hikers enjoy before making their way back to camp.
Another possibility is a full-day hike (about 4 to 6 hours) into the Ngare Sero Gorge to the source of the river. Or, clients can try a shorter walk (2 to 3 hours) into the gorge to see spectacular waterfalls. The scenery is a unique blend of arid volcanic rocks and lush tropical palms, and a picnic completes the experience.
Then, an absolute must for all travelers in the area is the short walk from Lake Natron Camp to the nearby cluster of incredibly rare and well-preserved hominid footprints, left here in the mud somewhere between 5,000 and 19,000 years ago.
Two hikers rest at their campsite on the multi-day Footsteps of Mankind Trek.
Credit: 2024 Lake Natron CampFootsteps of Mankind Trek
Another way to experience this region and its natural bounty is to book the Footsteps of Mankind Trek, a three-day journey (plus two nights at Lake Natron Camp) that includes both hiking and driving. Starting from the aforementioned hominid footprints and therefore close to Lake Natron Camp, the trek finishes at Olduvai Gorge, one of the most important paleoanthropological sites in the world and home to evidence of some of our earliest ancestors.
Hikers will trek roughly 6 miles a day on this trek, up the Rift Valley and through traditional Massai lands, following the migration routes the Massai and their cattle (which move to find fresh pastures). Panoramic views of endless, undulating plains and valleys are trek highlights. Hikers will also trek dry riverbeds; hike up rocky gullies and drive across the vast Sale Plains, which are often dotted with zebras, gazelles and golden jackals; explore the dramatic cliff faces of the Sanjan Gorge, where endangered Ruppell’s griffon vultures nest; and try out their rudimentary Swahili with passing local tribespeople. Young herd boys wrangling flocks of sheep, goats and cattle, accompanied by the melodious tinkling of the bells hanging around the animal’s necks, are among other sights, and local ladies might offer trekkers handmade beaded jewelry and trinkets. Observing hidden rock paintings that few outsiders have ever seen, having dinner underneath a sky full of stars and sipping bush coffee by the fire at dawn are additional unforgettable details.
The final leg of the journey is to Olduvai Gorge, within the protected Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Formed roughly 30,000 years ago and known as “The Cradle of Mankind,” the steep-sided Olduvai Gorge is about 30 miles long and 295 feet deep. Stepping foot here feels like stepping onto Mars, the landscape all red dust and boulders, and barren and waterless. It was here that, in the early 20th century, archaeologists Louis and Mary Leakey uncovered some of the earliest hominid fossils. The fossil-rich deposits at Olduvai cover a period ranging from 2,100,000 to 15,000 years ago — a remarkable chronicle of human ancestry. There’s also a fascinating museum here for clients who want to learn more.
All of the above illustrates how northern Tanzania is a land of geographical extremes. Clients will find Africa’s highest mountains, plus alkaline lakes and hot mineral springs, much of which is shaped by volcanic activity. To journey here is to journey through eons of evolution, and to experiences things that few travelers ever do.
About Lake Natron Camp
Lake Natron Camp is an ideal hub for the above treks. The eco-camp has seven luxury tents and is run by local Maasai; profits go to their village. Rates start from $450 per person, per night, fully inclusive. Guided treks are at an additional cost.
Travelers can reach Lake Natron by road (it’s a two-hour journey from Manyara or Ngorongoro), but they should be prepared for bumps and dust. Alternatively, flights from Arusha Airport to Lake Natron can be booked and are approximately one hour.
