A Local's Guide to Moorea

While visiting Moorea, French Polynesia, in January, I had plenty of memorable experiences. But without a doubt, one of my favorite mornings was spent with Havaiki Brouillet, learning to cook traditional Tahitian cuisine and discovering what local life on the island is all about. 

Brouillet is a Moorea native who had an international career in fashion before returning home to found Atunu Mai Moorea Culinary, offering cooking classes and workshops with an emphasis on sharing Tahitian culture and tradition. 

Classes are held in a beautifully decorated home with a lush garden — truly the stuff of Instagram dreams — and guests prepare a menu of culturally significant dishes under Brouillet’s guidance, such as Tahiti’s famous raw fish preparation, poisson cru; poe, a fruit pudding in coconut milk; and uru (breadfruit). 

One highlight? Making coconut milk from scratch, from cracking open the coconuts to shaving and squeezing the flesh. At the end of the class, the chefs-in-training sit down to enjoy the delicious fruits of their labor.

Here, Brouillet shares how travelers can enjoy Moorea as the locals do. 

What sets Moorea apart is: the short, 30-minute ferry ride from Tahiti. Despite being so close to the capital, Moorea remains very authentic and, to me, is one of the most beautiful islands of Polynesia. As soon as you descend from the ferry you can feel the island’s relaxed atmosphere.

Moorea also has a great balance of beach scenery and mountains. Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay are undoubtedly among Moorea’s most breathtaking features. 

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My favorite hidden gem is: Coco Beach. You park your car and a canoe picks you up and takes you to a motu (small island) for snorkeling and lunch on the beach. Seeing Moorea from the ocean toward the mountains is not to be missed. 

On my ideal day off, I would: wake up and have breakfast at Snack Rotui, tasting local food with the peaks of Mount Rotui for scenery. Then I would head to Mareto Beach for white sand, mountain views and pristine turquoise water. I’d have lunch on the ocean at Snack Mahana, a very authentic restaurant where locals and tourists mix. Next, I’d drive to Belvedere Lookout for stunning views as the sun sets on the two bays. I’d wrap up with dinner and a local dance show at Sofitel Kia Ora Moorea Beach Resort; they have an amazing restaurant on the water with views of Tahiti.

The top must-try Tahitian dish is: poisson cru, a raw tuna salad marinated in lime with vegetables and freshly squeezed coconut milk. I would say Snack Mahana has a very good one. 

My favorite restaurant is: Le Lezard Jaune Cafe. [The name means] “yellow gecko,” translated in Tahitian as “Moorea.” This place serves plancha-cooked seafood and meat, including tuna, mahi mahi, an excellent poisson cru and fruit-based desserts. 

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To best experience Tahitian culture: find activities that take you away from the tourist path. In Moorea, we have a few good activities where you can meet the locals [and have] truly wonderful [experiences]. Some very good immersive tours are available, and you can really live it up. Street food tasting, night snorkeling, spending the day with a local botanist, cooking with the locals — these are genuine experiences where you can exchange ideas and learn so much about our culture.