While the average U.S.-based traveler may not be familiar with Aguascalientes, a growing number of musicians are — including the Black Eyed Peas, Maluma, Ricky Martin and Rod Stewart, to name a few. And that’s just a partial list of who has visited the central Mexican city (and eponymous state) this year.
What’s the attraction? They all flew in to perform at the Feria Nacional de San Marcos (San Marcos National Fair), one of the largest annual events in Mexico. This year’s fair — which is something like a three-week carnival, with everything from livestock shows and rodeos to musical performances — attracted nearly 10 million visitors. Anyone interested in attending next year’s event, which starts in April 2024, should move fast to reserve a hotel room (the stars, however, have yet to be announced).
The Feria is just one reason travelers head to Aguascalientes. But there are many others, as I discovered during a recent visit. This may be one of Mexico’s smallest states, but it offers an impressive array of attractions and activities that allow for a deep dive into Mexican culture, history and creativity.
A historic train station at Aguascalientes Railway Museum
Credit: 2023 DepartureLevel.com
The state has several claims to fame: It’s home to three designated Pueblos Magicos (Magical Towns), one of the nation’s largest railway museums and two noteworthy national museums — one focused on all Mexico’s Magical Towns, and one dedicated to death. Aguascalientes is also the birthplace of the man who created the first Catrina, an iconic symbol of the Day of the Dead.
During my visit, I checked out tourism offerings in the capital city of Aguascalientes, as well as several sites elsewhere in the state.
What to See in Aguascalientes City
Even though I wasn’t in town during the Feria, I visited multiple venues that host the event. Like Rio de Janeiro — which uses the purpose-built Sambadrome Marques de Sapucai for Carnival — Aguascalientes has a dedicated space in the heart of the city that stages many of the Feria’s activities, while others take place at Isla San Marcos, a sprawling entertainment and event complex that’s home to Mexico’s largest covered rodeo stadium, as well as a lovely park area that’s graced with Mexico’s largest permanent Catrina statue.
Speaking of Catrinas, I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Museo Jose Guadalupe Posada, a museum that showcases the work of the printmaker and lithographer who first created the Catrina in the early 20th century. His creations are celebrated in grand style during the annual Festival de las Calaveras (Festival of Skulls), the city’s largest public Day of the Dead event, which takes place Oct. 27 through Nov. 2.
Considering that the city of Aguascalientes was founded in 1575, it’s no surprise that the lovely city center is another must-see. The central square is dominated by large fountains and a soaring cathedral that dates to 1704. Nearby, the historic Teatro Morelos (Morelos Theater) hosts musical and theater performances throughout the year.
Aguascalientes is home to Mexico’s largest covered rodeo stadium.
Credit: 2023 DepartureLevel.comA Wealth of Museums
I was pleasantly surprised by the array of cultural institutions in the city of Aguascalientes. At the Complejo Tres Centurias (Three Century Complex), for example, I learned about the region’s history as a major railway hub at Museo Ferrocarrilero, a railway museum that features a beautifully restored train station and vintage train cars — including the former presidential car of Lazaro Cardenas, who served as Mexico’s president from 1934 to 1940. Also within the complex grounds is the stunning Museo Espacio, a contemporary art museum.
As an art lover, I also relished my time at Museo de Aguascalientes, where we admired the work of locally born artists Saturnino Herran and Jesus Fructuoso Contreras.
Given the city’s connection to the Catrina, it seems especially appropriate that Aguascalientes is also home to the Museo Nacional de la Muerte, a museum of death that is affiliated with a local university. One of the city’s largest museums, it’s housed partially in a historic former convent and explores the fascinating iconography of death, from pre-Hispanic times through modern-day Mexico.
The Museo Nacional de la Muerte (museum of death)
Credit: 2023 DepartureLevel.comDay Trips and Side Trips From Aguascalientes
The state’s compact size makes it easy to take excursions outside the city. I had a lovely time at Hacienda El Saucillo, an atmospheric, centuries-old hacienda that sometimes hosts live concerts and destination weddings, as well as at Vinicola Santa Elena, a winery that offers tours, tastings and a full menu for dining.
Fans of Mexico’s designated Pueblos Magicos, meanwhile, will find lots to love in the state of Aguascalientes. I especially enjoyed my day trip to Calvillo, a picturesque town that’s home to Museo Nacional de Pueblos Magicos, which opened in 2019 as Mexico’s only museum dedicated to all of the nation’s Magical Towns.
Calvillo is also noteworthy as a culinary destination. It’s considered one of Mexico’s guava capitals, and my taste buds were delighted to discover the many ways locals use the fruit — in ice cream, in jelly and even as a base for an especially tasty mole sauce. Chamuco cookies — made from sugar, wheat flour and cinnamon — quickly became another of my favorite treats in Calvillo.
Calvillo is one of Mexico’s guava capitals.
Credit: 2023 DepartureLevel.comFor photo opportunities in Calvillo, I headed to Las Graditas, a colorful pedestrian street with more than 150 steps — stopping at bar and restaurant Grada Noventa&Seis to have cocktails — then headed to Santa Cruz, a 123-foot religious monument built in 2021 that rises from a hilltop overlooking the town and countryside.
I didn’t get to stay overnight in Calvillo, but someday I’d love to stay at Casa Bugambilias, a colorful and attractive eight-room hotel with spa facilities and two upscale restaurants.
Where to Stay in Aguascalientes
The city of Aguascalientes has a variety of accommodation options, often at prices that are noticeably below those of other Mexican cities. Top choices include Alameda Grand Hotel, which is set partially in a beautifully restored historic hacienda; Quinta Real Aguascalientes, which features traditional decor; and Fiesta Americana Aguascalientes, which is one of the best-situated properties for attending the Feria. On the outskirts of the city are the upscale Aguascalientes Marriott Hotel and Hotel Las Trojes, where I spent five comfortable nights.
