A reimagined prison, a silent procession and a gigantic collection of masks may not be the most common reasons to select a vacation destination. But in San Luis Potosi, they are just a few examples of what makes the city unique — and worth visiting.
I had never explored San Luis Potosi (the capital city of the eponymous state) before my recent trip, and I didn’t know quite what to expect. After all, this city of less than 1 million people isn’t at the top of most travelers’ wish lists. But, after a five-day dive into its culture, history, art, architecture and cuisine, I was hooked.
The sprawling Tangamanga Park is home to a theater, a science museum and more.
Credit: 2024 DepartureLevel.com
There’s lots to love about San Luis Potosi, including its historic center, which is a decidedly photogenic labyrinth of narrow streets, grand colonial-era buildings and shady plazas. Tangamanga Park is — by some measures — the largest urban park in Mexico, and it is graced with a variety of attractions, including a theater, a family-friendly science museum and a lovely Asian-inspired garden.
My tour guide, Miguel Galarraga of Autentico San Luis, provided a fascinating introduction to all the city has to offer. Even our accommodations offered a glimpse of the city’s diversity: City Express Plus by Marriott San Luis Potosi offered sleek, contemporary style in the newer outskirts of the city, while City Centro by Marriott San Luis Potosi — set in a beautifully reimagined historic building that dates to 1870 — is one of the longest-running hotels in Mexico. From the City Centro’s scenic rooftop pool deck, I plotted my exploration of the city.
A collection of modern and contemporary art draws travelers to San Luis Potosi Arts Center.
Credit: 2024 DepartureLevel.comTop Museums of San Luis Potosi
One of San Luis Potosi’s biggest selling points is its range of museums and cultural institutions. One of the most noteworthy is Centro de las Artes de San Luis Potosi (San Luis Potosi Center of the Arts), a massive cultural center set in a historic former penitentiary built between 1884 and 1904. Modern and contemporary art contrasts dramatically with the staid prison architecture, and one of the most interesting sections is Museo Leonora Carrington (Leonora Carrington Museum), which exhibits the eye-catching work of the British-born surrealist.
Also worth a visit is Museo Nacional de la Mascara (National Mask Museum), which is set in a gorgeous building and houses a wide range of masks from around Mexico and abroad.
Art lovers should also make time for a visit to Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (Museum of Contemporary Art) (), where I admired the work of a variety of Mexican and international artists, as well as Museo Federico Silva (Federico Silva Museum) (), where the collection is comprised of work by the Mexican contemporary sculptor who passed away in 2022.
For an interesting introduction to the state’s history, I visited Museo Regional Potosino (Potosino Regional Museum), which is set in a beautiful former Franciscan convent that dates to 1586 and features exhibits about pre-Hispanic and colonial-era life.
As a fan of everything related to vintage travel, I also enjoyed Museo del Ferrocarril San Luis Potosi (San Luis Potosi Railway Museum), which is set in a beautifully maintained former train station that dates to 1942 and features interesting exhibits that document the importance of rail travel in Mexico’s recent history. I gazed at model trains inside and especially loved boarding the vintage railway cars that sit on the tracks outside.
San Luis Potosi Cathedral is in the city’s historic center.
Credit: 2024 DepartureLevel.comSpecial Events in San Luis Potosi
San Luis Potosi hosts two major annual events, each with a different vibe. In the traditional, religious vein is Procesion del Silencio (Procession of Silence), a holy week event that takes place on Good Friday in the historic city center.
Feria Nacional Potosina (Potosina National Fair), meanwhile, is a lively, multiday event that draws big-name entertainment from Mexico and abroad. This year’s fair, which took place in August, featured musical artists such as Black Eyed Peas, Maluma, Steve Aoki, Gloria Trevi and Vanilla Ice, to name a few; next year’s acts have yet to be announced, but booking flights and hotels well in advance is recommended.
Savoring Regional Flavors in San Luis Potosi
Foodies looking for authentic local flavors will find lots to love in San Luis Potosi. Among my favorites is the enchilada Potosina, an enchilada made with chile-infused corn dough and filled with cheese and other items.
The city is also an ideal place to sip a michelada, the popular Mexican beer cocktail, since it was invented here. The exact history is disputed; one version claims that it was born at sports club Club Deportivo Potosino, while another says that a military man first ordered the drink for his soldiers at a local pub. Whatever the truth may be, it’s easy to find places to order a michelada today.
I was impressed by the variety of dining options in the city, such as Chau Resto, a casual but stylishly designed venue where I had a mouthwatering multicourse menu of Mexican specialties, paired with beer from local microbreweries.
I also enjoyed casual rooftop dining at La Oruga y La Cebada, which serves pub food with an artisanal touch, as well as cocktails at El Cotillon de La Lonja, an elegant restaurant and lounge that hosts live music and is affiliated with the Sociedad Potosina La Lonja, one of the city’s oldest private social clubs (the club is private, but El Cotillon is open to the public).
On our final evening, I had drinks at El Cotillon with John, a retiree from the U.S. who had moved to San Luis Potosi. His love for this city was obvious, especially when he made a rather specific request: “Please don’t tell too many people about San Luis Potosi. It’s perfect like it is.”
