Back in 2019, during the shipyard construction of American Queen Voyages’ (AQV) American Countess riverboat (converted from former casino boat Kanesville Queen), the vessel’s christening was expected to take place in April 2020. The pandemic delayed that ceremony until March 2021, and recently, I finally got to experience the now-completed vessel.
All I can say is, she’s quite a lovely lady, indeed.
Amid AQV’s recent expansion from rivers into broader ocean cruising, American Countess is a great reminder of how the brand originally established itself — as an upscale domestic cruise provider, pairing the timeless style of paddlewheelers with contemporary comforts and touring.
In its earlier incarnation, Kanesville Queen resembled, at best, a squatty shoebox. Now, stretched 60 feet and fully transformed from its days as a gambling vessel — there’s no longer a casino onboard, and AQV added a classic paddlewheel — American Countess is perfectly proportioned.
What to Expect Onboard
When compared to European river cruise ships, guests may notice some differences. The 245-guest vessel has considerably higher ceilings and grander public spaces. The Grand Lobby stretches along half of the port side, where expansive windows naturally illuminate cozy seating areas, the purser and excursions desk, a gift shop nook and the main bar. And while we’re talking about bars: Most alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are always included, save for a smaller selection of $3-per-pour libations and a list of top-shelf drinks at market price. (In 2024, inclusions — which already bundle free Wi-Fi access and a one-night, pre-cruise hotel stay — will also extend to pre-paid gratuities and port taxes and fees.)
The onboard library gives passengers a comfortable place to relax.
Credit: 2023 Jason LeppertMost cabins are also bigger than what’s found in Europe, as evidenced by my 226-square-foot deluxe outside stateroom with a private veranda on Deck 2, the largest category onboard. (There are no suites.) The bedroom furnishings were well-spaced, albeit without a coffee table at the sofa, and the bathroom was particularly voluminous with its expanded walk-in shower.
If anything, there is perhaps enough room to add additional concealed drawers in the future, which would help augment a singular hanging closet with a couple of drawers, a vanity desk with a minifridge, nightstands (both nicely outfitted with two USB charging ports and three electrical plugs) and many — but small — open shelves. Of course, the dedicated balcony was also a treat.
The 192-square-foot outside stateroom with open veranda category on Deck 3, by comparison, is not quite as long, as a public walking track runs next to the less-private balconies and reaches just beyond the Pilot House (or navigation bridge).
While the alfresco dining area at the stern is unusable when sailing at high speed because the paddlewheel churns up a heavy mist, the overall dining experience on the ship is outstanding. The River Grill presents a self-service buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner, mirroring many selections also available from the mostly full-service (and, in part, self-service buffet) Grand Dining Room. A combination of fine dining and Southern comfort foods includes everything from perfectly prepared and seasoned Delta fried catfish to a nightly plated lobster dish, finished off by the likes of the best pecan pie I’ve ever had. On the same deck is Perks cafe, where free snacks (cookies, popcorn, soft-serve ice cream, toppings and more), coffees, teas and other light refreshments are available 24/7.
Tours include regional museums and historical sites.
Credit: 2023 Jason LeppertBefore and after meals, the theater may host informative regional seminars and daily briefings, classic bingo, a version of the game “Liar’s Club,” an evening with Mark Twain (performed by a lookalike) and multiple nights of live music. A trio of talented vocalists, two of whom were also the personable cruise director and master “riverlorian” lecturer on our sailing, are backed by a great four-piece band. Instrumental jazz sets that spill into the lobby — where trivia games regularly take place — are bonus highlights.
Besides the forward terraces, there is no one observation lounge, but in the forward corners, a chart room, a library, a card room and a fitness center offer comparable views. A spa also pampers guests looking to book a massage or other treatments.
On the ever-charming American Countess, the passenger demographic consists almost entirely of seniors, and the regular programming is a hit among them. The sock hop was certainly well-attended, and the dance floor was full of energy. Those who are less mobile need not worry, however. The riverboat has three elevators and even a golf cart to drive guests up any steep shoreside inclines.
A deluxe outside stateroom with a private veranda provides plenty of space.
Credit: 2023 Jason LeppertItinerary and Excursions
Our Memphis, Tenn., to Louisville, Ky., route along the Mississippi and Ohio rivers featured ports that were not particularly flashy, but were cute and quaint. AQV’s guided “hop-on, hop-off” buses offer a complimentary circuit of stops in town, ranging from shopping spots to free-admission museums. In Paducah, Ky., for instance, the National Quilt Museum was opened to us exclusively for a half-hour before the general public. Also included are some extensive excursions, such as the four-hour “An American Leader: The Life and Presidency of Abraham Lincoln.” A handful of premium tours are also bookable at a nominal cost.
The American Countess experience is nothing short of a quest for Americana in the very heartland of the U.S., and I do believe Samuel Clemens himself would approve.
